Frederic Malle Discussion Thread

[Chanel1]

I have good impressions of the Frederic Malle house from reading this site and from their business practice of not selling on discount sites. I love the joke someone posted of a frustrated Captain Jean-Luc Picard saying "They call it niche, but you can buy it on overstock dot com!" I like fixed pricing where everyone pays the same. It seems fair that way.

In June, having driven a couple hours to sample fragrances, the Frederic Malle selections were the most interesting of the ones I tried. So I picked up a sampler marketed as "8 Parfums Pour Homme" in 5-ml sprays and also received a sample of Eau de Magnolia in a 3.5-ml spray. My priciest pickup to date at around $250. Crazy by my standards, but I'm having fun with it. Here are the eight perfumes for men:

1. French Lover (also marketed as Bois d'Orage)
2. Noir Epices
3. Geranium pour Monsieur
4. Vetiver Extraordinaire
5. Musc Ravageur
6. Angeliques sous la Pluie
7. L'Eau d'Hiver
8. Bigarade Concentree
9. Eau de Magnolia (bonus sample!)

43.5 ml total; about 90 to 100 wearings.

I think there are 25 fragrances in the line (although I do not see Outrageous, Saint des Saints, or the Night listed on their website, which only shows 22 fragrances in the line).

I'm updating this original post to list the next nine samples I ordered from the Frederic Malle website customer service sales contact - three samples for $20, but I made it nine for $60 (I sent an email with the list of samples and called to give them payment information):

10. Carnal Flower
11. Cologne Indelebile
12. Dans Tes Bras
13. Dries Van Noten
14. Iris Poudre
15. Le Parfum De Therese
16. Lys Mediterranee
17. Portrait Of A Lady
18. Une Fleur De Cassie

Another 30+ ml, about 60 more days wearing Frederic Malle.

The four fragrances listed on their website that I'm not sampling yet are Lipstick Rose, Une Rose, En Passant, and Cologne Bigarade. I had tried Une Rose on paper in the store, and possibly also En Passant and Lipstick Rose.

From the first nine samples, I think Frederic Malle is succeeding at making fragrances that are non-invasive, which is mentioned as a goal on their website for their home scents, but also seems to apply to most of their wearable fragrances that I've tried. Musc Ravageur, Noir Epices, and L'Eau d'Hiver have some power, but the other six have been lighter.

 

[hednic]

I love this house. I own 15 from the line and my faves are: The Night, Musc Ravageur, Cologne Indelibile and Veiver Extraordinaire but they're all nice.

 

[Zephyr1973]

I'm beginning my exploration of this line as well. So far I'm tried:
Iris Poudre
Angeliques sous la Pluie
Le Parfum de Therese

Unfortunately, none of these three stuck around on my skin to warrant a larger purchase. I do want to try more, though! I liked the scents, just need more longevity for me.

ETA: I decided to give Le Parfum de Therese another go, hoping it will act differently - will update at end of day!

Well, it's 10:00 pm EST, and I can faintly smell it! Perhaps I should only wear this in warm (sweltering) weather?

 

[cacio]

I like the line and have a few. They're all definitely worth smelling and trying. I own Vetiver extraordinaire, the freshest, zingiest vetiver. And masculine powerhouse Potrait of a lady; interesting they did not include it in the masculine lineup. Perhaps it's just too strong for a sampler, they don't want to scare people. Eau de magnolia is growing on me and will be purchased soon: it reminds me of good vintage Diorissimo, but citrusy. It makes a wonderful and non-cliche' summer masculine.

There are a couple that are close to being wonderful, but just not there for me. I love the dark, mossy beginning of Bois d'orage, but then there's something sharp that hits my nerves. I also love the dirty florals of Fleur de Cassie, but the drydown is a touch too clean for me. This one seems to have been reformulated, who knows.

As for Chanel, on net I prefer it. But it's also that part of the Chanel collection were past masterpieces - they've let time pick the masterpieces. But also among the newer creations, I think Chanel has a few that really hit the spot for me. In any case, a hypothetical masculine lineup for the Chanel exclusive would be (in no particular order):
1. Sycomore (a vetiver, like Vetiver extraordinaire, but woodier)
2. Cuir de Russie (a leather, albeit the plushest possible)
3. Coromandel (gourmand patchouli, probably closest to current gourmand masculine mainstream)
4. La Pausa (fresh iris - iris now having populated masculine perfumery, from Dior homme to Prada etc)
5. Misia (make-up violeti-iris, ditto. This will work especially well on retro bearded kids.)
6. Bois des Isles (the mother of Egoiste)
7. Bel respiro (greenish. not among my favorites, but it is traditionally masculine)
8. Eau de Cologne (the classic eau de cologne)

cacio

 

[du57in]

I received a three fragrance sample pack from Frederic Malle last week that included Cologne Indelibile, Portrait of a Lady and En Passant. The En Passant was for my SO, as she's a huge lover of lilac, and while I am not the biggest fan of it, I can certainly appreciate the quality and depth to what could have been such a shallow composition.

Cologne Indelibile and Portrait of a Lady are both incredible.

If you like neroli, I think that Cologne Indelibile is a must own. As good as if not better than Neroli Portofino in almost every way. And longevity is off the charts for this type of scent.

I have recently noticed I have a large amount of rose fragrances in my small collection now, and Portrait of a Lady now stands out among the best. It would have made an excellent addition to the Pour Homme set. The only two reasons I can think to not include it would be the name scaring people off, or maybe it's just too good.

 

[jhericurls]

So I picked up a sampler marketed as "8 Parfums Pour Homme" and also received a sample of Eau de Magnolia. My priciest pickup to date at around $250. Crazy by my standards, but I'm having fun with it.

That is crazy, seeing as Frederic Malle website offers free samples (3.5ml atomisers) you just pay for postage.

If you like neroli, I think that Cologne Indelibile is a must own. As good as if not better than Neroli Portofino in almost every way. And longevity is off the charts for this type of scent.

Glad you able to get such great performance out of it. I find it just ok, 6 out of 10... maybe 7 at a push. Longevity definity average, projection seems to drop off after 2 hours, then 3/4 hours as skin scent.

 

[freewheelingvagabond]

I think it's a very good house. I've recently been exploring many of their fragrances, and most of them were very, very good.

You have to give a bit of time to Dries van Noten. Yes, there is the sweetness, but there is a twist in the tale - the sweetness subsides to leave a wonderful sandalwood finish.

Another beautiful composition is Lys Mediterranee - based on lily.

 

[Chanel1]

That is crazy, seeing as Frederic Malle website offers free samples (3.5ml atomisers) you just pay for postage.

You're right, that sounds off. I may place an order, already feeling good about my fiancial contribution to the enterprise, but philosophically I'd rather pay the going rate per ml, and even a preimium for the extra labor and packaging. Knowing I'm not likely to buy a full bottle, requesting samples doesn't come naturally, but I'll check it out. Maybe you're right and I can get the rest of the line for a killer deal, or maybe there's fine print!

Update: I don't see the option for free samples on the website. More the opposite: 10 ml sprays going for $50.

 

[jhericurls]

Update: I don't see the option for free samples on the website. More the opposite: 10 ml sprays going for $50.

Email "[email protected]" and request which 3 samples you want, they only send them out 3 at a time. Also states where you want them posting, so they can give you the amount of postage to pay. Then you just send payment via Paypal to that email address.

Postage cost will be € 9 for you.

They deliver quick! I ordered my samples 3pm and it arrived next morning in the UK.

 

[Chanel1]

Email "[email protected]" and request which 3 samples you want, they only send them out 3 at a time. Also states where you want them posting, so they can give you the amount of postage to pay. Then you just send payment via Paypal to that email address.

Postage cost will be € 9 for you.

They deliver quick! I ordered my samples 3pm and it arrived next morning in the UK.

That makes sense: up to three samples upon request. That email address is on the website in the customer service link. Nice delivery time!

Anyone reading this should order three samples and join the discussion!

 

[badarun]

Did u try Carnal Flower from the Malle line up? I did not see it as part of your sampler list...Incredible floral - probably the sexiest fragrance I've smelt on a woman...

I own 5 from the Malle line up - Vetiver Extraordinaire, POAL, French Lover, Geranium Pour Monsieur & Musc Ravageur - if asked to pick just one, I might right now go with VE, as I just got the bottle a week back However, each of the 5 I own are pretty much keepers in my wardrobe & well worth the money I spent them on. Carnal Flower is so great on my girlfriend that I can't wear it, but I love taking a spray from the sample I have once in a while. The Ellena creations for Malle are rated very high by good noses here, but they didn't work for me, both Bigarade C, which vanished earlier than l'Humaniste would & Angeliques Sous la Pluie, which also vanishes pretty quick - totally not worth the money (imho).

On the chanel line up - Sycomore & Cuir de Russie are my favorites, followed by Bel Respiro. I own Coromandel too, but the sweetness is intoxicating to me nowadays in a negative way, so I'm swapping it out in the near future. Bois des Iles is a good sandalwood in the extrait format, but I have other better SW's to bother spending that amount. Eau de Cologne is great too, but I have enough reserves of the original vintage version Pour Monsieur, a great chypre in itself, so I don't need the EDC...Two other stand out's are 31 Rue Cambon & 28 La Pausa...

Enjoy your Malle sampler pack - let us know if u end up buying a bottle (or more)...

 

[Chanel1]

Did u try Carnal Flower from the Malle line up? I did not see it as part of your sampler list...Incredible floral - probably the sexiest fragrance I've smelt on a woman...

I was smelling a bit of this and that, liking nothing, and when I got to the Frederic Malle, every scent was hitting me as: "Hmm, this could be something?" Including Carnal Flower. I'm going to try the jhericurls suggestion and try to get three freebies, and I suppose I'll request Portrait of a Lady, Carnal Flower, and Cologne Indelebile.

 

[badarun]

POAL is definitely wonderful - I mean, excluding the new Cologne release, I've been hooked to any Ropion creation for Malle, can't go wrong with them

 

[Chanel1]

I'm trying 3. Musc Ravageur, and it is similar to Coromandel. Sweet patchouli. Slightly dirtier. So strong.

Does this have a signature Malle note? Can you tell from the smell that this is part of the Frederic Malle line?

 

[Chanel1]

POAL is definitely wonderful - I mean, excluding the new Cologne release, I've been hooked to any Ropion creation for Malle, can't go wrong with them

Awesome, because two of mine are by Ropion: Geranium pour Monsieur and Vetiver Extraordinaire.

Up to now that has not even been a name I've known, but now I'm curious to learn more.

 

[badarun]

I'm trying Musc Ravageur, and it is similar to Coromandel. Sweet patchouli. Slightly dirtier. So strong.

Does this have a signature Malle note? Can you tell from the smell that this is part of the Frederic Malle line?

I don't get any patchouli in MR - more vanilla + spices & obviously a good dose of dirty musk...Lasts a day or more (if u don't shower).

 

[Chanel1]

I don't get any patchouli in MR - more vanilla + spices & obviously a good dose of dirty musk...Lasts a day or more (if u don't shower).

It's like I'm guessing because it's so similar to Coromandel. It must have patchouli. I'm off to read the notes.

So it looks like the common notes are vanilla and musk. No patchouli mentioned for Musc Ravageur that I saw.

 

[FiveoaksBouquet]

Chanel1, enjoy them in the best of health! I look forward to all your reviews as you wear the scents one by one.

I like the line and have a few. They're all definitely worth smelling and trying. I own Vetiver extraordinaire, the freshest, zingiest vetiver. And masculine powerhouse Potrait of a lady; interesting they did not include it in the masculine lineup. Perhaps it's just too strong for a sampler, they don't want to scare people. Eau de magnolia is growing on me and will be purchased soon: it reminds me of good vintage Diorissimo, but citrusy. It makes a wonderful and non-cliche' summer masculine.

There are a couple that are close to being wonderful, but just not there for me. I love the dark, mossy beginning of Bois d'orage, but then there's something sharp that hits my nerves. I also love the dirty florals of Fleur de Cassie, but the drydown is a touch too clean for me. This one seems to have been reformulated, who knows.

As for Chanel, on net I prefer it. But it's also that part of the Chanel collection were past masterpieces - they've let time pick the masterpieces. But also among the newer creations, I think Chanel has a few that really hit the spot for me. In any case, a hypothetical masculine lineup for the Chanel exclusive would be (in no particular order):
1. Sycomore (a vetiver, like Vetiver extraordinaire, but woodier)
2. Cuir de Russie (a leather, albeit the plushest possible)
3. Coromandel (gourmand patchouli, probably closest to current gourmand masculine mainstream)
4. La Pausa (fresh iris - iris now having populated masculine perfumery, from Dior homme to Prada etc)
5. Misia (make-up violeti-iris, ditto. This will work especially well on retro bearded kids.)
6. Bois des Isles (the mother of Egoiste)
7. Bel respiro (greenish. not among my favorites, but it is traditionally masculine)
8. Eau de Cologne (the classic eau de cologne)

cacio

That's a very nice potential lineup for a "masculine" Chanel Exclusifs set. I could also see adding Jersey, which to my nose is similar to Caron's Pour un Homme. If one were required to keep the number to eight and one scent had to be deleted, I would insert Jersey in place of Misia. However, i think Misia could work very well on a man. I like and wear most of this line and also like the idea that most of them aim at gender neutrality.

Among the Malles I have Vétiver Extraordinaire in the soap, which is exhilarating. I agree it's a very fine vetiver. I've had some Malle perfume samples but never bought a full bottle. If I did it would probably be Lys Méditérranée.

 

[Mountainbikesandwatches]

I purchased 8 3.5ml samples from the boutique in New York, Anthony Del Tufo was very helpful there over the phone. We talked for maybe 5 minutes about what types of fragrances I like, as this was a few months ago and I knew nothing about the house except reading a bit. Would have been overwhelming otherwise. I have only worn a couple but been sniffing! I am kind of wondering what to get next, so for me and anyone else I paid $40 for these beautifully packages big spray testers. A bargain I think, and he threw in a feminine oriented fragrance he wanted me to try that he said was very "in the cusp" with high profile clients there.

Musc Ravageur my favorite so far, just great not sure what I'm smelling but amazing
Bois D'Orage bold orange not for me but like it better than than other niche orange fragrances to me
Bigarade Concentree wow super sweet and potent
Geranium Pour Monsieur awesome, super clean somewhat medicinal flower scent
Vetiver Extraordinaire probably my number 2 so far
Noir Epices just not sure about this one, weird
Portrait of a Lady would love to smell this on woman, not sure if I am there yet but classy feminine fragrance
L'Eau D'Hiver this one is lost on me, very light scent very different than the others in design or something...... Nice smell but so light?
Dries Van Norton beautiful scent but not sure when I would wear it

If anyone is in New York and hasn't visited, I would tell you to go for sure! I am planning a weekend in fall to visit all of these great boutiques. I think Fragrance Republic is right down the street. Gf will be coming along for the sights and food, I really only care about the boutiques and learning more. I highly recommend anyone who is curious call Anthony and pick up 4 samples for $20 shipped or just double up, crazy good.

 

[Sweetstench408]

I own Geranium Pour Monsieur and Musc Ravageur I plan on buying Portrait of a Lady, cologne indeleible and Carnal Flower very soon. This house is quickly becoming one of my favorite houses.