Focused Lime Accord!

[chyprefresh]

Here's my focused lime accord, It's focused in that it cuts a lot of fat, i.e. molecules that don't make a noticeable or lasting impact in a lime oil's overall scent. I also added a few ingredients that help extend the limonene and other volatiles. It's a monster opening compared to natural lime, more punchy but settles into a natural longer lasting lime scent that will stick out more in perfumes, then settling again into a smooth generic citrus.
If you're lacking/don't own some materials I apologize, just ask and I or others can suggest alternatives if there are any. And of course scale it up/down as you see fit.

Alpha Pinene>>>>>>>>>.04
Beta Pinene>>>>>>>>>>.08
Alpha Terpineol>>>>>>.12
Terpinolene>>>>>>>>>>.4
Gamma Terpinene>>>>.68
Para Cymene>>>>>>>>.2
D-Limonene>>>>>>>>>>2.27
Dihydro Myrcenol>>>>>.04
Bisabolene>>>>>>>>>>>.02
Lime Oxide>>>>>>>>>>>.01 (Optional for tip-top punch)
Valencene>>>>>>>>>>>.08 (Optional to extend/add to limonene)
Benzyl Salicylate>>>>>>.04 (Adds space and helps limonene performance)
Cremophor RH40>>>>>.02 (Optional helps extend the volatiles a little)
4ml

Let it macerate for a few weeks and check back on it.

 

[ScentAle]

Very interesting accord thanks!

 

[chyprefresh]

Very interesting accord thanks!

If it aint interesting, I don't want the part. 😬 😏

 

[ScentAle]

If it aint interesting, I don't want the part. 😬 😏

🤙💣

It's first time I read Cremophor. Is this a base?

 

[chyprefresh]

🤙💣

It's first time I read Cremophor. Is this a base?

Emulsifier/fixative extending the volatile compounds in citrus notes.

 

[parker25mv]

limediene (mixture of methyl cyclohexadiene and methylene cyclohexene) supposed to pretty useful, though I don't know who sells it

small amounts of C-8 aldehyde can help in a lime accord

sometimes dimetol could work with a lime note

 

[DruidHR]

Cremophor RH40>>>>>.02 (Optional helps extend the volatiles a little)

Where did you buy Cremophor?
I'm from Europe and looked at some shops like (Pell Wall, Hekserij, Plush Folly, ..) and they don't have it. I did saw that Perfumer Apprentice have it but shipping cost is just crazy.

Or could you suggest some ingredient that has similar effect to citrus volatiles that is more common.

 

[parker25mv]

Cremophor RH40>>>>>.02 (Optional helps extend the volatiles a little)

It says that Cremophor is a nonionic multipurpose solubilizer and emulsifying agent, that can "extend the volatile compounds in citrus notes".
I personally would be inclined to be a little skeptical about that. It probably does not have a smell itself.
I pulled up some information about it and its molecular structure looks similar to that of soap (except for also incorporating an indeterminate length of polyethylene glycol between the glycerin unit and fatty acid chain). It's probably not going to evaporate.
I'd guess it is similar to things like PEG-40 Stearate (more on the liquid side) and Polyoxyl 40 (more on the solid side).

 

[Alex F.]

If I'm not mistaken, Cremophor RH 40 is just BASF's brand name for PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (both CAS-no. 61788-85-0).

 

[DruidHR]

If I'm not mistaken, Cremophor RH 40 is just BASF's brand name for PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (both CAS-no. 61788-85-0).

I found castor oil on Hekserij, is that the same oil you mentioned?
If yes, is that even usable in perfume?

(Can't provide link to it because my post ends as spam and need moderator approval)

 

[DruidHR]

If I'm not mistaken, Cremophor RH 40 is just BASF's brand name for PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (both CAS-no. 61788-85-0).

I found castor oil on Hekserij, is that the same oil you mentioned?

If yes, is that even usable in perfume?


(Can't provide link to it on Hekserij because my reply ends as a spam and need moderator approval).

 

[Alex F.]

I found castor oil on Hekserij, is that the same oil you mentioned?

If yes, is that even usable in perfume?


(Can't provide link to it on Hekserij because my reply ends as a spam and need moderator approval).

No! Castor oil (the one offered by the Hekserij) is the raw material, an actual oil, quite viscous. "PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil" is a surfactant/emuslifier made from hardened castor oil. It's common in cosmetics based on oil-water emulsions. In perfumery it's quite dispensable, if you ask me.

PS: I'm afraid I can't really help you with your original question about extending citrus notes. I have no experience with solvents like isopropyl myristate, dipropylene glycol, or triethyl citrate, that are said to have fixative effects in perfumes. When I want to extend a note, I try to find one that matches it and carries on the idea, so to speak. It depends on the context, but: Hedione generally works very well with citruses. Also woods, sharper woods like cedar, for instance, and resins, like elemi with lemon and frankincense with orange. To get back to the topic of this thread, I've found that a touch of tea tree oil works very well with lime. And it reveals a nice, crisp citrus note as it dries down.
Then there's the possibility of exploring longer-lasting citrus-materials, like "folded" oils (5x, 10x, ...) and terpeneless oils, including "coeur/heart"-versions.

 

[DruidHR]

Hey Alex ☺️

I have no experience with solvents like isopropyl myristate, dipropylene glycol, or triethyl citrate, that are said to have fixative effects in perfumes

I did saw that they are recommended but atm I'm low on budget. Probably next month I will purchase some of them. I saw that "Diethyl Phthalate (DEP)" is also recommended as fixative, but it comes with some bad rep(endocrine disruptor).

When I want to extend a note, I try to find one that matches it and carries on the idea, so to speak. It depends on the context, but: Hedione generally works very well with citruses. Also woods, sharper woods like cedar, for instance, and resins, like elemi with lemon and frankincense with orange. To get back to the topic of this thread, I've found that a touch of tea tree oil works very well with lime. And it reveals a nice, crisp citrus note as it dries down.

I do have cedar(atlas and mexicana), elemi, frankincense(olibanum) and hedione. So, this will probably be my starting point.

Then there's the possibility of exploring longer-lasting citrus-materials, like "folded" oils (5x, 10x, ...) and terpeneless oils, including "coeur/heart"-versions.

Never heard. I'll give it a try next month on paycheck 😜