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"fixatives"

AdamE

Well-known member
Jul 15, 2019
285
168
when something is referred to as a "fixative" does that mean it has a tendency to last a longer time on the skin *itself* or does it aid in keeping other elements in play as well?
 

fragrantregard

Well-known member
Aug 2, 2015
1,105
57
when something is referred to as a "fixative" does that mean it has a tendency to last a longer time on the skin *itself* or does it aid in keeping other elements in play as well?

Both can be simultaneously true, though generally people mean the latter. Unfortunately, this term is widely abused by some.
 

AdamE

Well-known member
Jul 15, 2019
285
168
Both can be simultaneously true, though generally people mean the latter. Unfortunately, this term is widely abused by some.

Are there some that are more effective than others in regards to the latter? Im not looking for a cure-all for poor duration performance but would like to find some ways to make some naturals hang around a bit longer
 

Bkkorn

Well-known member
Feb 21, 2020
853
30
This is a very loose used term (fixative) and can mean many things. Please anyone correct me if im wrong in saying any of the below.

I feel there are 2 types of fixatives:
  • Scented Fixatives: These can be almost anything both natural and aroma chemical, and usually are a longer lasting "scented" natural or chemical. An example would be Benzion, musks or even Cedar Wood. While they are scented materials, they usually have a long odor life and can aid in making other notes last longer when blended with. A basic example is mixing a Musk with a Rose, while combining these 2 together will impart in a new combined scent...it "may" aid in having the rose last a touch longer because when blended with the Musk, the Musk can sometimes be a thicker material with lower evaporation rate. But again, when combining a scented material with scented fixatives, you are essentially creating a new smell (combination), in hope of a trade off of some sort of longevity in scent.
  • Unscented Fixatives: These can be unscented materials aiding is general fixation (adhere to the skin) of making notes last longer (useful in volatile top notes that evaporate too quickly). Examples of these are Cremophor RH40 and Glucam P-20, which are oily type substances.

Generally, NATURAL materials are not as long lasting ingredients as a aroma chemical counterpart. If you want naturals to last longer, you should consider mixing the natural with a synthetic aroma chemical of similar type. A good example of something like this is mixing a Lemon Essential oil (very volitile) with an aroma chemical of similar type like "lemonile", which should aid in making the natural EO scent last (or appear to last) a bit longer...be cause Lemonile has a longer odor life and shares a similar odor profile as the Lemon EO.

Again, its just how i view things. If any of these statements are incorrect, please chime in with insight. I dont want to spread around mis-information.
 

Bill Roberts

Well-known member
Mar 1, 2013
5,070
91
There is also at least one little-scented but exalting fixative: Fixateur 505e.

(I suppose that could be in the scented category, but in a different sense than say benzoin.)
 

parker25mv

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2016
2,709
626
Fixatives usually have high molecular weights and last a long time on the test strip.

What exactly a fixative does, I've always found a little bit ambiguous in perfumery, but the general idea I've garnered is it supposedly (and this is in a very loose non-scientific way) helps extend the fragrance, and modifies its olfactory effect.


In my personal opinion, what I think a fixative actually is and does, is it just lasts a long time, and is like how MSG is to food flavors, seeming to have an effect of amplifying the perception of the smell of other things.
This is just my personal speculation and from my experience, it might not be the official definition or correct.

Many musk materials I would describe as fixatives, but the fixative category is much more encompassing than that.
 

AdamE

Well-known member
Jul 15, 2019
285
168
Generally, NATURAL materials are not as long lasting ingredients as a aroma chemical counterpart. If you want naturals to last longer, you should consider mixing the natural with a synthetic aroma chemical of similar type. A good example of something like this is mixing a Lemon Essential oil (very volitile) with an aroma chemical of similar type like "lemonile", which should aid in making the natural EO scent last (or appear to last) a bit longer...be cause Lemonile has a longer odor life.

good tip, thanks!
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
13,693
2,530
I like everything that's been said here...If you are keeping to all natural, then you have too few materials to pick from that are traditional, due to a lack of deer musk, and or Civet due to a host of factors.

You'd likely need to start finding natural versions of molecules to call it "Natural", like Benzyl benzoate, or Benzyl Salicylate, if found as naturals.
Another naturally derived fixative compound just came out/was released this week, refined from tree stock. I have a sample coming.
I'm guessing, but I think it will likely figure well for an all natural line that a new client wants me to make.
 

Mak-7

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2019
3,276
2,622
I like everything that's been said here...If you are keeping to all natural, then you have too few materials to pick from that are traditional, due to a lack of deer musk, and or Civet due to a host of factors.

You'd likely need to start finding natural versions of molecules to call it "Natural", like Benzyl benzoate, or Benzyl Salicylate, if found as naturals.
Another naturally derived fixative compound just came out/was released this week, refined from tree stock. I have a sample coming.
I'm guessing, but I think it will likely figure well for an all natural line that a new client wants me to make.

Are you allowed to disclose what these new fixatives are?
 

AdamE

Well-known member
Jul 15, 2019
285
168
I like everything that's been said here...If you are keeping to all natural, then you have too few materials to pick from that are traditional, due to a lack of deer musk, and or Civet due to a host of factors.

You'd likely need to start finding natural versions of molecules to call it "Natural", like Benzyl benzoate, or Benzyl Salicylate, if found as naturals.
Another naturally derived fixative compound just came out/was released this week, refined from tree stock. I have a sample coming.
I'm guessing, but I think it will likely figure well for an all natural line that a new client wants me to make.

I think I'm ok with calling natural isolates "natural" in this case
 

Bill Roberts

Well-known member
Mar 1, 2013
5,070
91
Disappointing or disconcerting how their charts chop off the heads, so to speak, of the data from 0 and 0.5 hours and usually through to 0.75 hours thus obscuring all differences that might have existed in that time range. That would have been useful. As is, there was no point in even showing the shorter times, and we don't know whether or how much any of the fixatives blunted the opening. https://ss-usa.s3.amazonaws.com/c/3...02693340/P2 Science Citropol F Data Sheet.pdf

Summary for any not wishing to look: similar performance (at unstated concentrations, not even shown if concentrations are the same) to benzyl salicylate and benzyl benzoate.
 

fragrantregard

Well-known member
Aug 2, 2015
1,105
57
Examples of these are Cremophor RH40.

This is rarely -- if ever -- used in fragrance creation. It's really goopy, poor-smelling stuff. It is sometimes added to cosmetics, and even the perfume / ethanol / water mixture during manufacture for solubility purposes.
 

Bill Roberts

Well-known member
Mar 1, 2013
5,070
91
This is rarely -- if ever used in fragrance creation. It's really goopy poor smelling stuff. It is sometimes added to cosmetics, and even the perfume / ethanol / water mixture during manufacture for solubility purposes.

Yes, I used it in a nutraceutical microemulsion formula years back, and did not like the smell or taste (taste much worse than smell.) Memory is of it being somewhat cod liver oil-like as well as soapy. Seriously I wondered if it was a little rancid but I received it straight from BASF. Thankfully the product went into capsules so all this was not apparent.
 

filousoph

Well-known member
Jul 19, 2016
463
21
Here is (once again) a table of what fixative is good for what material. Taken from W. Sturm and G. Mansfeld (H&R), "Tenacity and Fixing of Aromatic Chemicals", Perfumer & Flavourist 1976 (1), p. 6.

Fixation Chart.jpg
 

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Mak-7

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2019
3,276
2,622
I believe Paul is referring to Citropol F from P2 Science. Requested a sample as well. Will see how it goes.

Nice. Got to their website and ordered sample. First time doing it. Anyone can share experience on costs if any, or do you need to report back to company on your findings when blending?
 

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