The Scented Devil
- Oct 17, 2012
Money money money money
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You may be thinking of women's EDPs. I've bought heaps of those over the years and some have barely lasted four hours on the women I bought them for, although most lasted longer. Men's EDTs last longer than many women's EDPs because their wood and leather basenotes just seem to last a lot longer than the floral basenotes in women's scents.Seriously? I consider any fragrance that lasts a whole 16 hours to be a marathoner.
I definitely concur with the idea of a loudness war in perfume like the loudness war in music.I think it mostly boils down to money. I’m guessing the big designers see it as cheaper to tweak half a dozen ingredients and change the Eau de toilette designation to Parfum. In a way it’s low hanging fruit for them, but they’ll soon run out of the low risk, cheap releases and have to put out something original in the way of a new pillar.
The other side to it is what happened with music production a few years back when many of the big boys (ahem and girls) would keep compressing their mix for loudness until all high and low notes were squished into a narrow bandwidth with much of the air, finer points and subtlety of the music being lost.
One last thing is an idea being espoused of real men having to be spoonfed new behaviours by the big boys (ahem and girls) like put on a perfume, put on a dress its manly GRRR as opposed to splash on some aftershave after you’ve shaved your face, or spray on some Eau de toilette before going to meet with the lads at your local bar or to meet a woman. Make of that what you will..
Not positive and others can weigh in and shout me down.The thing is, I already find some of these designer frags, in their original strength, to be 'more' than sufficient to get noticed by other people. For instance, Dior Sauvage, the EDT original, is plenty powerful enough to get picked up by people in an elevator. I imagine the Parfum strength could be offensive to sensitive people. I already worry that I over-apply. Finding that proper application amount to be "just enough strength to get some sillage, but not too much to offend" takes sometimes months of wearing a fragrance intermittently and in different weather and hopefully getting feedback from people in public that they smell the fragrance.
Hi Renato,Hi Andrew,
As I own none of the parfum strength scents and haven't tested any either. My interest is how long do they actually last in practice?
The very few EDP strength scents I've owned only had performance of about 16 hours before becoming faint - which was about double the endurance of their EDT strength counterparts - and I've owned plenty of EDTs that lasted much longer than those EDPs.
So I'd be satisfied if Parfum strength scents lasted at least a day to a day and half with moderate strength, else I'd think them a bit of a con-job. In your opinion, have any of the Parfum scents you listed and have tested achieved that endurance please?
I am just as confused.I'm confused why Le Male Le Parfum is an "eau de parfum intense", Bad Boy Le Parfum is an "eau de parfum", and Sauvage Elixir is a "parfum concentré"... 😮
From now on I'm not gonna buy any designer fragrance until the Parfum Elixir Priveé Ultime Vrai flanker gets released.
Thanks very much Andrew,Hi Renato,
I have so far tried Joop! Le Parfum, Sauvage Parfum, Sauvage Elixir, Stronger With You Absolutely and TdH Parfum.
None performed to the expectation of lasting the entire day and longer.
Instead, I got a denser, deeper version of the original, with nuances and 'dark' facets.
The all did last over 12 hours but the projection and sillage fell at around 8 hours.
Not accounting for skin chemistry and environmental effects, my conclusion thus far is that these 'parfum' options while containing mor perfume oil are more about a less fleeting initial blast than they are about monster sillage and long lasting projection.
In the end, they are just another flanker, with mostly stronger scents.
My base understanding is that the higher the concentration, the projection factor drops but the longevity increases.
So theoretically, the EdT version gets more noticed, but the EdP version lasts much longer though wearing closer to skin. Not sure where the "parfum" versions fall in this spectrum. I think they are supposed to be higher concentration than EdP.
I also don't know if there are any hard and fast rules about what can be called an EdT, EdP or Parfum. The cynic in me wonders if some of these companies pay little heed to the concentrations and are just tinkering the formula slightly and printing "Parfum" on the label.
There are specific guidelines regarding strength. EdT is typically 5 - 15% oil, EdP 15 - 20%, and parfum (AKA extrait, AKA pure perfume) 20 - 40%. As for whether companies entirely truthful with their marketing in this regard, I'm not sure, but I doubt it.