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Critic my formula

fenomenalguy

Member
Sep 15, 2020
72
14
Definetly intended to be an powdery iris fragrance, with a little sweetness and leather feel to it.

I need to refine this formula because i not like how it setle on my skin (right after i spray on my hand, im blasted with a weird plasticy smell) from the bottle it smell good (iris with powdery and tobacco undertone)

I'm open for critics.

Iso E Super 177
Hedione 118
Ambroxide 6
Ethyl Vanillin 1
Coumarine 6
Isoraldeine 35
Alpha Ionone 118
Ambrettolide 59
Methyl Diantilis 83
Patchouli EO 12
Cedryl Acetate 59
Polysantol 24
Bacdanol 24
Tobacarol 35
Cedramber 24
Ambrocenide 1
Lavandin Absolute 12
Veraspice 4
Ginger EO Madagascar 12
Dimethyl Hydroquinone 1
Nutmeg EO 1
Magnolan 35
Azarbre 47
Mahagonate 6
Anisaldehyde 12
Coniferan Pure 6
Linalool 6
Linalyl Acetate 12
Geranyl Acetate 6
Terpinyl Acetate 6
Acetophenone 1
Manzanate 6
Vertenex 12
Methyl Pamplemousse 12
D-Limonene 24

TOTAL 1000
 
Last edited:

mnitabach

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 13, 2020
4,471
2,187
This is not comprehensible with every single component listed at weird & inconsistent dilutions. Can you please repost this as actual percents of formula or ppt?
 

pkiler

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Dec 5, 2007
13,542
2,350
Offhand, I would toss out the Azarbre and Magnolan, and remake it without them, and see if you get the plastic smell still.
And I also suspect that the Methyl Diantilis dosage is quite high.
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 13, 2020
4,471
2,187
Offhand, I would toss out the Azarbre and Magnolan, and remake it without them, and see if you get the plastic smell still.
And I also suspect that the Methyl Diantilis dosage is quite high.
Agreed, in particular that methyl diantilis is absurdly high. Try 1 ppt & go up from there. Also, I think your santal chems are pretty high. I'm not an expert on bacdanol, but the polysantol seems very high & santal chems can powerfully suppress other facets of the composition if too high.
 

fenomenalguy

Member
Sep 15, 2020
72
14
Offhand, I would toss out the Azarbre and Magnolan, and remake it without them, and see if you get the plastic smell still.
And I also suspect that the Methyl Diantilis dosage is quite high.
Thank you, i cut off Azarbre and Magnolan, also reduced Methyl Diantilis from 83 to 30, Polysantol to 10 and Bacdanol to 5 ppt, i evaluated this right after i finished reformulation(because i was impatient) and now i can detect anisaldehyde more, i will evaluate again after i let this to setle down.
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 13, 2020
4,471
2,187
Thank you, i cut off Azarbre and Magnolan, also reduced Methyl Diantilis from 83 to 30, Polysantol to 10 and Bacdanol to 5 ppt, i evaluated this right after i finished reformulation(because i was impatient) and now i can detect anisaldehyde more, i will evaluate again after i let this to setle down.
30 ppt methyl diantilis is still bizonkerz high unless you're trying to make an Old Spice clone. 😹😹😹
 

fenomenalguy

Member
Sep 15, 2020
72
14
30 ppt methyl diantilis is still bizonkerz high unless you're trying to make an Old Spice clone.
I will try again with 10-5 ppt to see what happen, but i want to be a powdery iris fragrance, maybe some Isoeugenyl Acetate can help?
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 13, 2020
4,471
2,187
I will try again with 10-5 ppt to see what happen, but i want to be a powdery iris fragrance, maybe some Isoeugenyl Acetate can help?
You don't need any eugenyl-related materials to make a powdery iris accord.
 

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