Choosing slots for a male beginner's perfume wardrobe?

[kreteknose]

One comment I appreciated on these forums was @imm0rtelle saying not to think about having one signature scent, but thinking about perfumes as tools to cast yourself as a different character in your own movie. Having a good wardrobe lets you play the characters you need to play, and a good beginner's perfume wardrobe should cover the basic roles.

I tried to look up articles on starting a collection or wardrobe for men, but couldn't find any meaningful ones. The most basic advice seems to be to get a couple of casual or summery scents, one work safe and professional scent, and a couple of big night out scents. I was hoping to build a wardrobe in a more structured way, avoiding overlap and covering more ground. The basic advice isn't too useful for me because someone's big night out and strong scent is relaxing to someone else.

I'm finding myself appreciating different notes and mixing it up on different days. My current attempt at a male beginner's wardrobe looks like:

1. Casual and easy - Light citrus and classic eau de cologne scent - Dior Privee Cologne Royale, for a no frills lemony classic eau de cologne scent that I might randomly spray on just sitting at home. Most other candidates were rejected by the lady as having some sharp scent she disliked, including Acqui di Parma Colonia. I took Cologne Royale over Chanel Exclusifs Eau de Cologne as the latter had a spicy note underneath I didn't like (same with Chanel Bleu). I found Parfums de Manly Sedley interesting as a light, simple but very fruity scent, and wonder what others along these lines I should be exploring.

2. Fresh and professional - Fresh but moderate scent - Maison Francis Kurkdijan Gentle Fluidity Silver, for a fresh scent that is interesting and different with its juniper or gin tonic note. It's interesting but moderate enough for a more professional meeting. The lady finds it OK but is not wowed by it, and some days I'd rather have a fresh scent with more projection. Some days it honestly smells a bit flat and chemical/synthetic, and other days I smell the freshness and the juniper note without it having too many things going on. I was also looking at Aqua Universalis from MFK, Dior Homme 2020, and other fresh scents not stereotypically barbershop or shower gel or have a harsh ending.

3. Fresh and fruity - Fresh scent that surrounds you - Terre d'Hermes Intense Vetiver, for a fresh scent that is stronger and projects. This one out over the other Terre d'Hermes flankers and the lady liked the simpler lemon of the original least. I love the initial note, it's like standing outdoors by a grassy river on a cool, breezy day. The lady really loves this too. I'd love to explore this category but a number of likely suspects seem flat, dated or have a harsh ending. I initially liked vintage Aventus (not going to go out of my way to look for that!), Roja Elysium Parfum, and Terenzi Orion and will try these more. I'd also like to try classic Dior Eau Sauvage, and will revisit Tom Ford sents like Neroli Portofino and Mandarino di Amalfi, and Cartier Declaration. The lady hates Creed Aventus and says its opening is like a punch in the nose for her and too sharp.

4. Sweet and aromatic - Vanilla, iris or lavender - Xerjoff Naxos, for a non-fresh, non-citrus masculine scent that projects, likely as a going out scent. The lady loved Naxos and raved about it for hours, and I haven't quite found a vanilla scent she likes. Malle Musc Ravageur didn't seem to grab her, and Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille got less attention than Naxos. I'd also love to explore masculine iris scents like Dior Homme Intense.

5. Relaxing and gourmand - Tea? - This one I haven't really explored. I thought I curiously liked Matcha out of the Le Labo lineup but the lady didn't find it interesting (and she found Santal 33 interesting while I didn't). Not gourmand but I'd also like to explore Comme des Garçons Hinoki.

6. Sweet and woody - Woody scent that surrounds you - Tom Ford Oud Wood, for a woody scent that is sweeter and gentler, and projects, likely as a going out scent. I haven't explored truly oudy woods and suspect I'm currently fine with gentler if less traditional formulations. The lady really loves smelling this, and we both hate wood scents that have too much leather, smoke, incense, spice, musk, or strong floral (strong rose). I'd also like to go back to check Xerjoff Alexandra and Givenchy Gentleman Reserve Privee although the lady wasn't wowed.

7. Boozy - Haven't found one I really like yet, but I'd love a scent that's more boozy than woody. I'd love to revisit Maison Martin Margiela Jazz Club, and would like to try Amouage Overture.

Smelling various perfumes, I found that the lady and I dislike too much leather, smoke, incense, spice, musk, and strong floral notes, or anything too sharp, so that segment of "going out" men's scents is missing from my framework. I also don't prefer something too close to the traditional barbershop, very green and vegetal fougeres, or overly shower gel scent.

I have a lot of other recommended scents from various threads, but how are these slots to help frame a beginner wardrobe?

 

[slpfrsly]

For the full experience of becoming a fragrance fanatic, you might want to backlight your wardrobe with fairylights a la the youtube trend. Or, better yet, buy a fridge and/or wine cooler to store your fragrances. I think you get a basenotes badge when you do. And if you don't then you totally should.

 

[cacio]

As you point out, everybody has different needs and preference regarding a wardrobe, so there's no rule for what slots should be there. Your lineup seems really good, and, importantly, works for your partner.

Regarding your slots, probably the most famous tea is Bulgari Eau parfumee au the vert. Another good one is Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan (tea plus osmanthus). Usually, tea does come off as relaxing, but not really gourmand. (Gourmand usually means something very sweet, like a dessert). Hinoki is really in the category of (non-sweet) woods, some say it smells like a japanese sauna (ie the smell of dry warm wood). For boozy, my favorite is Lubin Idole (rhum), though I don't know if it is still around, and it's difficult to find anyway.

cacio

 

[ultravisitor]

how are these slots to help frame a beginner wardrobe?

Well...what do YOU think?

How are you intending on wearing fragrance?

How often will you wear a fragrance?

What kinds of fragrances do you like to wear and in what kinds of situations do you like to wear certain kinds of fragrances?

What kinds of fragrances do you gravitate towards more often?

Do you like to wear fragrances according to season?

It doesn't matter what I think because my intentions in wearing perfume and building a wardrobe are different from yours.

There are no wrong answers here. There is no "right" or "better" way of doing it.

So, again...what do YOU think?

 

[hednic]

there's no rule for what slots should be there.

This.

 

[sunnymitra]

I'd worry less about any categories and suggest you get yourself down to your nearest perfume or department store with time to spare and test out fragrances like there's no tomorrow! Having said that, if you want to try a boozy fragrance for instance, there's no harm in asking for some examples. Paper strips are probably best and if you particularly like something, spray some on your hand or arm as it may make a difference. Keep a note / write down the names of whatever you like and investigate further. Your own nose will lead you, in good time, to differentiate between scents which will then fit in more meaningfully to the categories you mention.

 

[Sheik Yerbouti]

I'd worry less about any categories

Especially at such an early stage.

Your own nose will lead you

100%

 

[L'Homme Blanc Individuel]

As you point out, everybody has different needs and preference regarding a wardrobe, so there's no rule for what slots should be there.

THIS.

Well...what do YOU think?

How are you intending on wearing fragrance?

How often will you wear a fragrance?

What kinds of fragrances do you like to wear and in what kinds of situations do you like to wear certain kinds of fragrances?

What kinds of fragrances do you gravitate towards more often?

Do you like to wear fragrances according to season?

It doesn't matter what I think because my intentions in wearing perfume and building a wardrobe are different from yours.

There are no wrong answers here. There is no "right" or "better" way of doing it.

So, again...what do YOU think?

And also THIS.

You're asking the same question in thread after thread, day after day, week after week, wanting people to tell you what to do and what to like and what to think.

What do YOU like?
What do YOU think?

Here's how I started building my wardrobe.

I said to myself "I need a scent to wear to work, especially for important meetings. I need a scent to wear on dates. And I'd like to find something for everyday use." Based on my life at the time, that's what *I* wanted. I'm not sporty, so I didn't need anything sporty. I don't have too many formal situations, so I don't need a formal scent if the "important meetings" scent would do the job.

Then I went to places like Nordstrom and Sephora, and I smelled fragrances in search of scents I liked that fit my needs.

Eventually, I realized I wanted something light and airy that would be good for hot summer days. And I wanted something heavy enough for winter. And eventually, I started sampling niche and other things that weren't available at stores near me.

Over time, my wardrobe grew.

You're desperately trying to find specific rules that must be followed and specific people whose opinions matter more than your own. It doesn't work that way.

Do you need to buy a tuxedo even if you don't have formal situations to wear one? No? Do you need to buy skis if you don't ski??? Do you need to buy a kilt if you're not Scottish and have absolutely no connection to any Scottish events or traditions????? Then why would you buy a fragrance for situations that suit somebody else's life instead of your own?

WHAT. DO. YOU. LIKE? If you can't answer this question, you're never going to find the answers you're looking for. Figure out what YOU like.

 

[ultravisitor]

WHAT. DO. YOU. LIKE? If you can't answer this question, you're never going to find the answers you're looking for. Figure out what YOU like.

This needs to be repeated.

And here's the thing: if he WANTS to buy what others consider to be a formal fragrance and wear it every single day even if he's just sitting around in a t-shirt and ratty shorts, he can do that! And it will matter to none of us!

 

[milkbaby]

For the full experience of becoming a fragrance fanatic, you might want to backlight your wardrobe with fairylights a la the youtube trend. Or, better yet, buy a fridge and/or wine cooler to store your fragrances. I think you get a basenotes badge when you do. And if you don't then you totally should.

These are excellent ideas, though I feel that he shouldn't settle for half measures but should go full monty by starting his own fragrance YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok channels as well!

 

[PrinceRF]

This is my preferred approach to building a fragrance wardrobe, as I like the idea of having a different fragrance in each category rather than having a large collection. Of course, you can get more or less specific with each category. Let me offer some suggestions you might like to try from your missing categories.

Relaxing and gourmand - If you enjoy tea scents you might like Memo Winter Palace. I found it incredibly soothing and quite versatile.

Boozy - This is a great genre IMO. In my case, I actually have a "warm" boozy - Nasomatto Baraonda - and a "cool" boozy - Kilian Straight to Heaven. Kilian makes a lot of great boozy scents; you can start exploring there if you have a Saks or Neiman Marcus nearby. I also highly recommend sampling Idole de Lubin, as that is one of the nicest boozy scents I've tried.

 

[lair77]

Having a variety of different fragrances is good. But keep in mind, these types of categories are arbitary and subjective. They're not wrong, but they're not a rigid hard rule either, and it's not like you have to buy 1 fragrance from each category.

Also, imo, many fragrances can't be neatly defined into one genre, and have aspects of more than one genre.

If you're wearing a fragrance to try to leave some kind of impression on people, keep in mind that most people aren't fragrance enthusiasts that categorize scents like this. Most people either like a scent or don't. And if you're wearing it for yourself, then you can just wear what you want whenever.

 

[kreteknose]

Regarding your slots, probably the most famous tea is Bulgari Eau parfumee au the vert. Another good one is Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan (tea plus osmanthus). Usually, tea does come off as relaxing, but not really gourmand. (Gourmand usually means something very sweet, like a dessert). Hinoki is really in the category of (non-sweet) woods, some say it smells like a japanese sauna (ie the smell of dry warm wood). For boozy, my favorite is Lubin Idole (rhum), though I don't know if it is still around, and it's difficult to find anyway.

cacio

This Hermes may not be available in Singapore, I have not come across it!

 

[kreteknose]

Relaxing and gourmand - If you enjoy tea scents you might like Memo Winter Palace. I found it incredibly soothing and quite versatile.

My partner actually got attracted to Memo and checked out their display, I was surprised there wasn't a lot of discussion on Memo here. Will be going back to check Memo and Killian.

 

[cacio]

Osmanthe Yunnan is part of the Hermessences line, so if available, one should find it only at Hermes boutiques or upscale department stores that carry the line.

 

[Sheik Yerbouti]

Which fragrances do you own at the moment?

 

[kreteknose]

Regarding your slots, probably the most famous tea is Bulgari Eau parfumee au the vert. Another good one is Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan (tea plus osmanthus). Usually, tea does come off as relaxing, but not really gourmand. (Gourmand usually means something very sweet, like a dessert).

I tried Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan but it's so subtle I barely smell anything. Didn't grab me.

 

[Salumbre]

For sweet and woody, try Herod by Parfums de Marly. Someone else has said that it is what Tobacco Vanille should have been, and I agree.