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Biggest surprises in Perfumes The Guide 2018?

D

Deleted member 26209986

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Same here. A lot of houses I've never heard of before, and I thought I was reasonably up on this stuff.

Seeking out the unknown used to be a lot more fun, but the realization that even if you find the latest new great thing, it's likely to be $250 for 50ml, or $10 for not even a 1ml sample. That's enough to give anyone pause.

I know in the next year I'm gonna have to tighten my perfume budget. I often sit on buying certain perfumes until I'm absolutely sure I want to spend the cash on a full size. Even buying samples has become a belt tightener.
 

Redneck Perfumisto

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Why? It's atrocious mall stink.

Even here, more people talk about the stupid ammosexual bottle than what's contained therein.

Garbage.

Why not? It's the best of generic masculine fragrance and the best of cleaning products in one scent! :wink: :evil:
 

sobejjj

Member
May 25, 2016
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1) I am surprised there are no entries for Le Labo or House of Matriarch.
2) I was surprised about Areej le Dore's low scores at first, but than I thought that Mr. Turin probably sniffed a lot of real deer musk and high quality ouds, so it's not such a novelty for him and the compositions themselves aren't that great I guess
3) I am sad surprised ELdO's Une Amourette got low score, I think it's great
4) I am happy surprised Orto Parisi line was bashed, I think they're terrible and overhyped af!
5) I am happy surprised Mr. Turin is a fan of smoky fragrances, it is my favourite genre
 

EMK

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Mar 5, 2015
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That Alaia got 5 stars.

Alaia deserves 5 stars. *blows raspberry*

Two big surprises for me:
1) Hermès Twilly getting 5 stars (not that I dislike it, just rather unexpected!) and
2) Hermès Twilly being listed among the top ten masculines.
 

sprclldr

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Jun 30, 2018
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I've been perusing the new guide for a couple of days now and here are some impressions.

1. Francis Kurkdjian's creations are apparently not Luca's bag. At all.
2. The Aventus rating, though obviously controversial, is to me not all that surprising.
3. Serge Lutens is out and Luca loves trashing his creations.
4. Roja Dove, too, is relegated to the nether regions of Luca's review scale. I mostly agree.

In general, I get the feeling Luca leans towards high ratings for houses and fragrances that push the artistic envelope. Which is not surprising.

What is surprising, is the glaring omission of so many houses and perfumes. You may think that the guide is a large update, but I cannot understand why so many houses and perfumes are simply missing. Despite being readily available.

Examples: Le Labo, Xerjoff, Boadicea the Victorious, etc.
 

thediamondsea

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Jan 10, 2016
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I'm still processing (and only up to letter D), and I'm trying not to skip ahead to looks at some of my pet loves and pet peeves to see if they get mentioned. (Although I did skim the 5 star ratings just to make sure that nothing inexpensive I've been thinking about buying made the cut; because, FWIW, I actually love Alaia (and I also love the Blanche variation); so I had to pull the trigger on a tester bottle sooner than I had planned. I literally watched the Fragrancenet inventory drop from 6 to 1 within 2 hours today.

One very pleasant surprise was in the dedications: congratulations, Pluran--your name is in lights.
 

Darjeeling

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Oct 29, 2012
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the 4 stars for Aventus was flagged up some time ago

Monsieur Li is the only one I like from the Jardins -- oh well :embarassed:

thats ok. I quite like it too. Enough to get a small decant. Still prefer Nil. I can understand how Li could be viewed as a generic, cynical pitch to the Asian market.
 

Juxtapozbliss

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Nov 3, 2016
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So is the 4 star Aventus review high or low?

It's a high rating. 5 is a masterpiece. That he liked Aventus is the biggest surprise so far... I'm still in the As. I'm kind of glad he didn't like MFK because the three that I've sampled did nothing for me...I blamed myself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Diamondflame

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I’m just as surprised at Twilly’s stellar rating. Didn’t feel it deserves the 5 star and still don’t. 3 at the most. I guess the ‘masterpiece’ bar has been lowered in recent years of slim pickings.

For seasoned noses like Luca, anything that’s been done before clearly warrants nothing more than a 3 star. Something novel even if ultimately not particularly wearable tends to rate higher.

Anyway, controversial ratings are what drive online chatter and ultimately the book sales.
 

Vmaster

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When I saw the 4 stars for By Kilian Moonlight in Heaven, my only thought was: "Wow, Luca has good taste, just like myself." :D

Personally I enjoyed reading the ebook. It was a humorous and thought-provoking read.
 

Redneck Perfumisto

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...

Two big surprises for me:
1) Hermès Twilly getting 5 stars (not that I dislike it, just rather unexpected!) and
2) Hermès Twilly being listed among the top ten masculines.

Agreed with the surprise on both counts - and I had even blogged about the scent in line with BOTH of those opinions!

I think Twilly is a bit of a daring wear for a guy, but the ginger and sandalwood are so strong, that the tuberose almost becomes the iris-role gender-bender of an otherwise male fragrance.

One other point. I think it's extremely possible that "fragrance gender" is about to undergo a rapid QUANTUM DESCENT from a separation that was mostly "cultural gender" to one that is mostly "natural gender". Stated another way, the "actual" rough dimorphism of gender fragrance preference may emerge from an earlier, more polarized state, that was much more cultural. If people are allowed to "find what they like and people like on them" without the baggage of "does the make me smell like the wrong sex?", we may reach a steady state of much greater fragrance overlap between men and women. There would still be difference, but it would be much finer and possibly even scientifically interesting.

The point further being that calling Twilly d'Hermes "masculine" may well have been ahead of the curve on Luca and Tania's part.

Not to mention it's also a nifty floor wax AND a commercial grade paint remover..

You know you love functional fragrance when the first thought about a new Febreze is "I wonder who did it..." :wink:

thats ok. I quite like it too. Enough to get a small decant. Still prefer Nil. I can understand how Li could be viewed as a generic, cynical pitch to the Asian market.

I half-suspect that if I spent enough time with Monsieur Li, I would have some kind of epiphany and fall in love with it, but I just don't feel like it's worth the effort.

...

One very pleasant surprise was in the dedications: congratulations, Pluran--your name is in lights.

That was awesome! :beer:

I’m just as surprised at Twilly’s stellar rating. Didn’t feel it deserves the 5 star and still don’t. 3 at the most. I guess the ‘masterpiece’ bar has been lowered in recent years of slim pickings.

For seasoned noses like Luca, anything that’s been done before clearly warrants nothing more than a 3 star. Something novel even if ultimately not particularly wearable tends to rate higher.

Anyway, controversial ratings are what drive online chatter and ultimately the book sales.

Do give it another sniff. For me, it was paying attention to the smart joining of the ginger and sandalwood with the tuberose to create a spicy "texture" in it, that made me really appreciate it!

When I saw the 4 stars for By Kilian Moonlight in Heaven, my only thought was: "Wow, Luca has good taste, just like myself." :D

Personally I enjoyed reading the ebook. It was a humorous and thought-provoking read.

Moonlight in Heaven is certainly a DIFFERENT fragrance, and I think that's a big part of the rating!

Yes, I am finding that the new Guide has all the charms of the old one. :happy:
 

Diamondflame

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Thanks Redneck. I think I should spend a little more time with Twilly. It IS androgynous, though.

Affinessence Vanilla-Benzoin
Really? €335 per 100 millilitre? FFS.

Lol. Is FFS the expletive I think it is? From 2 words to 3-letter reviews, eh?
 

Redneck Perfumisto

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Thanks Redneck. I think I should spend a little more time with Twilly. It IS androgynous, though.

Affinessence Vanilla-Benzoin
Really? €335 per 100 millilitre? FFS.

Lol. Is FFS the expletive I think it is? From 2 words to 3-letter reviews, eh?

WOW! I skipped over that one!!! LOL!
 

Duke Hunt

New member
Sep 17, 2010
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Going through the guide this morning and making a few notes of things to test. Another **** review which I found rather surprising is Boris Bijan Saberi. As a big fan and wearer of his clothing label, I had massive hopes for this one and was expecting something uber niche and powerful. The end result was a light, inoffensive and what I would call a Geza Schoen “B-side”.
 

Vmaster

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Thanks Redneck. I think I should spend a little more time with Twilly. It IS androgynous, though.

Affinessence Vanilla-Benzoin
Really? €335 per 100 millilitre? FFS.

Lol. Is FFS the expletive I think it is? From 2 words to 3-letter reviews, eh?

You are correct. :thumbsup:
 

mwx1010

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May 7, 2018
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I was a little surprised by the stinginess of some of the rating, but having thought about it it makes sense - the first book covered off a lot of the classics whereas this is more focused on the current state of play.

I’m up to “G” so far - the big surprise for me so far is that (as mentioned above), Luca really doesn’t seem to like MFK.
 

Duke Hunt

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Sep 17, 2010
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I was a little surprised by the stinginess of some of the rating, but having thought about it it makes sense - the first book covered off a lot of the classics whereas this is more focused on the current state of play.

I’m up to “G” so far - the big surprise for me so far is that (as mentioned above), Luca really doesn’t seem to like MFK.

Seems so, but ostensibly it seems like he hasn’t sampled his best work, I.e Absolue pour the Soir.
 

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