Best Jasmin Material

[polysom]

A friend of mine really loves Jasmin. So I want her to make a really nice Jasmin fragrance, that smells like fresh Jasmin. At the moment I have a Jasmin Abs from hermitage oils. There would also be the possibility to get Jasmine Concrete from HO. I was wondering what smells better in a perfume, the abs or the concrete?
Then from other suppliers there would be Jasmine Abs from Synthite or from Herbal Family, but I have no idea where the differences are and how they differ from the one I have. Does someone have experiences?
Or would it be better to use a Jasmin base instead or some Jasmin AC?

 

[chyprefresh]

Jasmine absolute is the 'absolute' best option IMO, I'd do something like a hefty dose of Hedione, a moderate amount of jas abs, a little limonene, Oranger crystals, Benzyl alc (could be a bit too sweet though), Indolene, benzyl salicylate, and then perhaps some lactones. Cis-3-Hex Salicylate could freshen it up a bit and maybe some Hydroxycitronellal.

 

[Capybaron]

A friend of mine really loves Jasmin. So I want her to make a really nice Jasmin fragrance, that smells like fresh Jasmin. At the moment I have a Jasmin Abs from hermitage oils. There would also be the possibility to get Jasmine Concrete from HO. I was wondering what smells better in a perfume, the abs or the concrete?
Then from other suppliers there would be Jasmine Abs from Synthite or from Herbal Family, but I have no idea where the differences are and how they differ from the one I have. Does someone have experiences?
Or would it be better to use a Jasmin base instead or some Jasmin AC?

Sicne this is a pretty basic question, i assume that you, like me, are still new to perfumery.

That´s why i´d like to offer some basic information, which might be useful. (Or already known to you.)

1.) There are two different kinds of jasmin commonly used in perfumery. Sambac and grandiflorum. Both smell pretty distinct, and you should find out which your friend likes more.

2.) In the same vein- While i wasn´t able to smell real jasmin, yet, which admittedly is a shame for i really love jasmin tea and the absolues, i´ve learned that the absolue smells different from fresh jasmin flowers. It might be worth to check out, as well, whether your friend actually likes the scent of the absolue.

3.) Jasmin, especially grandiflorum, is somewhat restricted by the IFRA. So, if you want to be safe, you have to account for that. (Although, the limit, especially for sambac, is still quite high.)

 

[Mr.P]

Another thing I would add is that a truly high-quality grandiflorum absolute will develop a wonderful fresh floral characteristic as it unfolds. Finding a high-quality absolute seems to be the hard part because nine out of 10 that I have smelled are odd in some way, and I think all the really good stuff is bought up by the big players in the industry and the second rate crops end up being sold retail.

 

[ourmess]

The concrete is used to make the absolute. After you put the concrete into your perfume, you'd have to filter it to remove all of the insoluble constituents of the concrete...and then what would be left behind would be a tiny bit of absolute. Therefore, there's no point in using the concrete - either use the absolute, or don't. ;p

 

[jfrater]

I would recommend using a base and just decorating it with musks and support materials. My Jasmin Imperial (grandiflorum) base already has quite a lot of natural jasmin absolute and ylang ylang so you don't even need to add those. If you go for just a natural product use the absolute - I think grandiflorum is the truest jasmine most people think of but you can use more sambac if you go down the natural path. Sambac has a distinctly green note. The nicest absolute though less characteristic is Jasmin Flexile (Taruni) which is a little harder to find but is richer and more beautiful. It would make a nice addition to jasmin imperial if you opted to use a base. Firmenich makes Jasmophore which is also nice but has no natural absolute and is a little more on the fantasy side.

There is also Jasmin Blanc (231) the classic jasmin base with nuances of narcissus and some natural (but very subtle) civet. A blend of a Jasmin Imperial base and Jasmin Blanc was the core of Joy by Patou and later 1000 by Patou (in combination with rose and osmanthus).

https://fraterworks.com/products/jasmin-imperial

 

[polysom]

Thanks all. I did not know about Jasmin Flexile. Will have a look. For bases I do have Jasmophore, which for my nose is nice but not as beautiful as the Abs. I will stay away from the concrete then. Still looking for a good absolute, the one I have is nice, but has something acidic to it that I do not like.

 

[polysom]

Jasmine absolute is the 'absolute' best option IMO, I'd do something like a hefty dose of Hedione, a moderate amount of jas abs, a little limonene, Oranger crystals, Benzyl alc (could be a bit too sweet though), Indolene, benzyl salicylate, and then perhaps some lactones. Cis-3-Hex Salicylate could freshen it up a bit and maybe some Hydroxycitronellal.

Thanks for your ideas. I have made an Mitsouko bases blend. But the Jasmin part is a bit soapy, acidic.

Sicne this is a pretty basic question, i assume that you, like me, are still new to perfumery....

I am now for around two years in perfumery, depends on you if you thing this is still new. Thanks for your details, but actually I knew all of this already. But It might be useful for somebody else for sure.

 

[mnitabach]

I would recommend using a base and just decorating it with musks and support materials. My Jasmin Imperial (grandiflorum) base already has quite a lot of natural jasmin absolute and ylang ylang so you don't even need to add those. If you go for just a natural product use the absolute - I think grandiflorum is the truest jasmine most people think of but you can use more sambac if you go down the natural path. Sambac has a distinctly green note. The nicest absolute though less characteristic is Jasmin Flexile (Taruni) which is a little harder to find but is richer and more beautiful. It would make a nice addition to jasmin imperial if you opted to use a base. Firmenich makes Jasmophore which is also nice but has no natural absolute and is a little more on the fantasy side.

There is also Jasmin Blanc (231) the classic jasmin base with nuances of narcissus and some natural (but very subtle) civet. A blend of a Jasmin Imperial base and Jasmin Blanc was the core of Joy by Patou and later 1000 by Patou (in combination with rose and osmanthus).

https://fraterworks.com/products/jasmin-imperial

Do you think this is legit?

https://essentialoilwizardry.com/product/jasmine-flexile-absolute/

 

[jfrater]

Do you think this is legit?

https://essentialoilwizardry.com/product/jasmine-flexile-absolute/

correct description but it seems a bit suspect - from the site owner's friend's personal stash. I have some here and can dilute a little for you for free with your next order if you like (just put a mention in the notes to remind me). I will probably stock it in the future but need to get a new supplier.

 

[Hedione HC]

The picture doesn't show jasmine flowers at all, let alone Jasminum flexile.

 

[Hedione HC]

With regard to your jasmine-centered (soliflore?) perfume, I'd strongly second @jfrater 's suggestions. I purchased a selection of his floral bases, including Jasmin Imperial, Jasmin Blanc and Jasmin Fleurs. Jasmin Imperial is indeed a very nice and convincing alternative to natural jasmine grandiflorum absolute and it can be used way more liberally. - However, as somebody who wholeheartedly loves essential oils and absolutes for decades, I can definitely understand the desire to use as many naturals as possible.

 

[perfumum]

I second the idea of using a Jasmine base - less of a headache and with the good ones you can push in different directions. I'm more known for my gardenia base than my jasmine one, but for "decorating" synthetics here are my go-tos:

Jasmolactone
Lactone of Cis jasmone (both bring "thickness)
Jasmine Thiophene (all-round superpower)
Hydroxycitronellol/Florosa etc - pull towards a more perfumey feeling as opposed to wearing a literal flower
Lactoscatone, civet bases and Tetrahydroparamethyl quinoline - reinforcing the skanky parts
Bran abs - if you specifically get the IFF/LMR one you can achieve interesting floral volume and "absolute" effects without as much of the natural.

As for the Herbal Family/Synthite jasmine decision, one is Egyptian and one is Indian, but they are both excellent.

 

[parker25mv]

This may be a bit off topic to the question being asked in the OP, but I'm rather fond of
Lactojasmone (evocative the opaque white milky creamy part in jasmine, slightly "stuffy" in a way some might compare to white oak)
petal pyranone (petal effect evocative of jasmine with some texture and very natural feeling, also somewhat creamy)

Jasmelia (jasmin pyranol) can be an interesting alternative to Hedione, maybe with a nuance of green herbal parsley making it in one way reminiscent of the natural absolute. There's also Jessemal (Jasmonyl, herbal pyran) The two ACs are apparently very similar, although herbal pyran has a bit more of a mushroom aspect, which can still nevertheless work very well with many floral accords, especially gardenia. (and I'll also give quick mention to Gelsone) Keep in mind both of these might be perceived as lower quality in smell than Hedione and their Hedione-like effect is not as strong. But I'd say if you already have Hedione, there's no compelling reason to need to seek these two ACs out.

benzyl acetate can be useful to things like jasmine, giving a diffuse smell vaguely reminiscent of the background feel of jasmine, though is not distinct-smelling of jasmine