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BergamHoney simple formula

ScentAle

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2021
911
463
Hello. New sharing of a simple fast nice honey formula, for honey lover. Enough intoxicating floral honey.

IES 120
Honey Firmenich 18
PEPA 15
Bergamot 100
Anisaldehyde 25
Patchouli co2 40
Hedione 140
Vanilline natural 20
Cedroxide 20
Lyral 60
Civet synth 0.25
Cedramber 30
Labdanum absolute 10
Lilial 20
Styrallyl acetate 5
Cashmeran 20
Muscenone 20
Isoeugenol 10
Virginia cedarwood 90
Indole 1
 
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parker25mv

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2016
2,709
621
Honey Firmenich 18
PEPA 15
Phenylethyl phenylacetate (PEPA) is a great one to use in conjunction with other honey ACs. I find that it's a little more "waxy", evocative of beeswax.
In a way, it is less specifically "honey-like" than some of the others, kind of reminds me of a sweet nectar from some pink flower, but it is less overpoweringly "musky" than methyl phenylacetate (which is usually what a honey fragrance is centered around) so can help extend the honey effect without making it go overwhelmingly musky.

It's interesting how honey can sometimes dominate in a fragrance at levels that are not too high.

Some comments on the formula: This does appear to be a honey, Iso E Super ("amber"), cedar fragrance.
(I bet you could make a real interesting variation replacing Atlas cedar with the virginiana cedar, though that would be totally different in feel)
I'm sure the bergamot, anisaldehyde, and labdanum take the honey note in an interesting direction.
(Other alternatives often used include coumarin or linalool)
I can just imagine the vanillin and isoeugenol taking this in a more rich direction.

My instinctive "feeling" looking at that formula is that it looks like something from 25 years ago, I mean a little "out of date". The modern formulas would probably try to combine in isoeugenol replacers (such as methyl diantilis, in an attempt to reduce the isoeugenol allergen potential), and would probably avoid Lilial, using one of the other modern muguet substitutes. (Although I don't mean to imply that means there is anything wrong with this formula)

I see that anisaldehyde is part of the distinctive character of this fragrance, but another option, I think, could have been to cut back on the anisaldehyde, replace some of it with azarbre and beta-ionone (to help replace some of the life and diffusiveness) and maybe even cut back on the bergamot a little bit, switch out the Lyral with a substitute (even though that substitute may not smell as nice), and add some neryl acetate.
A little bit of benzyl acetate could have also been an option (playing up the deep floral feel and vague jasmine effect).
(like maybe reduce down to 8 anisaldehyde, 5 azarbre, 2 beta-ionone, 4-12 neryl acetate, 7-15 benzyl acetate)

This may not seem to make sense to you, but I think the anisaldehyde in your formula is sort of taking the place of benzaldehyde that can be found in many honey fragrances. So that may just be something to think about, to understand how it works.
 
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parker25mv

Well-known member
Oct 12, 2016
2,709
621
For any who may be interested, here are two other formulas that showcase Firmenich Honey signature.


Apparently Firmenich's Honey signature is some real top quality stuff, centers around natural extract from real honeycomb (very unusual in the fragrance industry, if I can point that out), though also adds a few synthetics in smaller quantities.


Just my personal sentiments on this, but something like this that natural and so expensive, it's almost sacrilegious to be mixing in stuff like lyral and cashmeran in there with it.
 

ScentAle

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2021
911
463
Thank you Parker, interesting and true. Bergamot and anisaldehyde are vital here yes, and is a bit inusual the high funny bergamot dose with honey, but here is ok and give a real freshness and something interesting.
Yes for sure is a bit old, being banned materials in use. Cashmeran give some interesting texture to the sweet honey, accentuated with pepa.
I tried azarbre (that I like so much to use) but I had sensation to prefer without it, but small dose like you said can be perfect i think.
Benzaldehyde hint for sure is a great addition also for me. There are many nice possible changes for sure.
Atlas cedar is a wood that I almost strangely dont consider about never, because I hate, but yes can be a good addition.
Honey Firmenich is amazing.
 

LaurenStahl

New member
Dec 20, 2021
36
13
Hello. New sharing of a simple fast nice honey formula, for honey lover. Enough intoxicating floral honey.

IES 120
Honey Firmenich 18
PEPA 15
Bergamot 100
Anisaldehyde 25
Patchouli co2 40
Hedione 140
Vanilline natural 20
Cedroxide 20
Lyral 60
Civet synth 0.25
Cedramber 30
Labdanum absolute 10
Lilial 20
Cashmeran 20
Muscenone 20
Isoeugenol 10
Virginia cedarwood 90
Indole 1
Made this formula and added some stuff to it to make it a little more complex, and woooow i am so inlove with this scent. just by following your formula its amazing.. i added some tobacco stuff and a little oriental feel to it and i cant stop smellimg it… thanks alot for sharing !!!!
 

ScentAle

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2021
911
463
Made this formula and added some stuff to it to make it a little more complex, and woooow i am so inlove with this scent. just by following your formula its amazing.. i added some tobacco stuff and a little oriental feel to it and i cant stop smellimg it… thanks alot for sharing !!!!
Oh yes, glad you liked it. Sometimes also simple formulas can be so beauty and strong.
 

Sunrise2009

New member
May 1, 2023
7
0
Thank you for sharing your formula. I am new in perfumery. Is the amount you listed for each formula part per thousands?
 

mnitabach

Basenotes Plus
Basenotes Plus
Nov 13, 2020
4,474
2,190
Thank you for sharing your formula. I am new in perfumery. Is the amount you listed for each formula part per thousands?
Add up all the numbers & call that number "X". The formula is in parts per X. If X is one thousand, then it's parts per thousand.
 

PeeWee678

Well-known member
Jan 7, 2022
445
275
Thank you for sharing your formula. I am new in perfumery. Is the amount you listed for each formula part per thousands?
You can interpret those numbers as any weight unit: milligrams, grams, ounces, kilograms, pounds, etc.
Moreover: you can muliply (or divide) them by any factor (number) you like:

For example: for a small trial the most practical way to go is to multiply all values by 10 (or more if you want a larger trial) and use milligrams as the unit.

Note: In this example Civet would then amount to 2.5 mg which is impossible to weigh accurately.
Solution: Simply (pre)dilute some Civet 10 times in a separate container and add 25 mg instead to the mix.
 

ScentAle

Well-known member
Oct 26, 2021
911
463
I would suggest, if want to reduce the pure sweet honey explosion, to decrease honey firabs and add some styrallyl acetate (i updated it) and a touch of aurantiol.
 

Sunrise2009

New member
May 1, 2023
7
0
You can interpret those numbers as any weight unit: milligrams, grams, ounces, kilograms, pounds, etc.
Moreover: you can muliply (or divide) them by any factor (number) you like:

For example: for a small trial the most practical way to go is to multiply all values by 10 (or more if you want a larger trial) and use milligrams as the unit.

Note: In this example Civet would then amount to 2.5 mg which is impossible to weigh accurately.
Solution: Simply (pre)dilute some Civet 10 times in a separate container and add 25 mg instead to the mix.
Dear PeeWee78 thanks a lot for your reply :)
 

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