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All Things Ensar Oud

Chet_Karim

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Sep 8, 2020
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There has been very little information on the platinum series. I've had to fish reviews out of people for a few of them. I've seen nothing on attars like Angkor though. I'm interested although the price does seem high for a Cambodian oud attar.
 
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Mick B

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Oct 12, 2021
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623
All of you who were asking for a notes list, you're just a bunch of peasants according to EO in his latest newsletter:
Many people have asked for a note breakdown of Kyara LTD, and I understand why.

In the past, people have even said, “I don’t care about your description, why can’t you just give us a scent pyramid? I just want to know what’s in the perfume so I can decide if I want it or not!”

I get it. Scent pyramids can be useful, and are useful when it comes to most perfumes.

But an EO perfume is not about the note breakdown.

In fact, it’s all about not breaking down the notes!

Scent pyramids can be helpful if the perfumes are designed to be unpeeled like an onion, which admittedly many (if not most) are.

Ingredients, especially when they’re mainly isolates, are added in quantities calculated to appear and disappear at specific rates, while most modern perfumes contain only a handful of aromatics.

Such perfumes not only follow simple structures but share the same ingredients across brands – different brands use the same generic jasmaphore, synthetic oud, or musk ambrette, or orange ‘note’, all acquired from the same sources.

These simple structures combined with predictable rates of evaporation, and a familiar range of ingredients have set the norm in the perfume market through mass marketing and the dominance of a small number of aromachemical suppliers backing the juice.

In this mainstream dome, scent pyramids are a good guide to tell you what you can expect to smell. The scent is broken down into easily reducible notes which most people have been conditioned to recognize.

Folks hear ‘oud’ and immediately think of a specific note shared by all those ‘oud’ perfumes, regardless of the fact that, in reality, oud can be as varied an aromatic as spices can be. Just think of Thai vs Maroke oud – they might as well be considered different ingredients entirely.

But tell me this: On which planet does Kyara LTD have anything in common with any of the designer oud perfumes?

I’ve mentioned some of the notes, like carnation and tuberose and juhi, not to imply that you would or should smell any of them distinctly, but more to hint at the caliber of the aromatics that accompany and help you achieve the inexplicable scent this perfume aims to capture.

Kyara LTD is not a perfume meant to be unpeeled and note-picked. Rather, it captures a specific profile – kyara. It simply is what it is. No breakdown required. Spritz it and take it all in as one.
 

Castingshadows

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Apr 14, 2020
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I left my OG Crime and Punishment at an Air B and B in Norway. Is there anything that currently comes close to this OG aroma? I’m kinda bummed as I don’t wear it often but when I’m in the mood nothing scratches that itch. Now I’m left all itchy. please help.
 

Xcaliber6685

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Sep 18, 2020
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All of you who were asking for a notes list, you're just a bunch of peasants according to EO in his latest newsletter:

Asking to see the note list isn't only to find out exactly what we get for our money, but most importantly, to find out what's in it that we need to avoid!! It's the matter of personal preference but there are quite a few ingredients that I personally wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole, something like Green Khus, Camphor, Black Ambergris, etc.

And sometime people are allergic to certain compounds, be it oakmoss or whatever, it would help them to identify and avoid the stuff they can't wear as well.
 

Xcaliber6685

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EO team read this thread frequently, I'm sure they'll see it here.

On a side note, I did mention the very things on FB's EO page, hopefully EO team would reconsider our legitimate concern and logical reasoning behind why a lot of us need to see the note list.
 
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Mak-7

Well-known member
Sep 19, 2019
3,275
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We need some atendees to the oud fest to chime in. Thats the only more or less sure way of knowing how it is without spending the major dollar
 

Xcaliber6685

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It's not about getting for the money but what it's worth to you after you buy it. It's $1750 for a 30ml sample, and for those feeling dangerously irresponsible as my homeboy Maher said over on FB, there's the $2850 50ml sample. Buy it or don't (not you playboy, in general). If doesn't smell as good to buyers as the ad reads despite containing its namesake legend, we shall see some on Facebook.

I agree with EO as far as trying to extrapolate what it smells like based on note list. Smelling it is a must to know what all of the ingredients do, as one.

I agree with you as far as note list listing things that may offend. But, do you think any of the pyramids list every ingredient? Or just the main players?

The answer is samples to assess fragrance, performance, offending ingredients, value to you versus price, etc., but they sell without them so no incentive from the seller to provide.

The oud is cool but I've always rated genius, the ability to sell water to a whale, salt to a snail, Harvard to Yale, and a bucket to a pail. You're winning my boy, you are the wind beneath my wings.

"What I'm trying to avoid" is actually a higher priority than "What I get for my money".

It isn't just about the Kyara LTD release, it's applying across the board on all releases.

The main components should be listed, for transparency's sake. Part of the main problem with hiding certain notes, is something like the Musc Gardenia OG, which has mint in it and that stuff was never listed nor being mentioned, guess what? while that minty stuff is enjoyed and loved by some, there are other camps of people who can't stand it. 😅

If I can't see what's in it, the chances of me skipping it are significantly higher than if I knew what I was getting into. Would you ever buy mysterious meat or mysterious vegetables from the supermarket and eat them? not knowing what was in it, where they came from, and how they got there in the first place? rolling the dice to see if any of them would trigger your allergic reaction or fall into the list of notes you hate doesn't sound so hot to me. Just because a lot of perfumers do not provide the list does not make it right, or ideal.

ie: If i knew a composition has something like camphor in it, I don't even want to sample it, and the cost or value of the perfume doesn't even matter at that point, be it a $50 perfume or a $1500 release, not even if it's being discounted at 95% off or given out for free, i simply do not want to get anywhere close to it. lol
 

Mak-7

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Sep 19, 2019
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On your meat point i didnt even though about cats or dogs, but synthetic meat. That sh!t creeps me out 😵
 

Xcaliber6685

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Sep 18, 2020
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On your meat point i didnt even though about cats or dogs, but synthetic meat. That sh!t creeps me out 😵
Lab-grown mysterious meat lacks dimension, aromatic, textility, and flavor, very flat and linear type stuff, a bit like eating brown paper bags.

Upside is, it's very stable and consistent. 🤣
 

Mak-7

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Sep 19, 2019
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Lab-grown mysterious meat lacks dimension, aromatic, textility, and flavor, very flat and linear type stuff, a bit like eating brown paper bags.

Upside is, it's very stable and consistent. 🤣
Did you actually try it?
It should have same texture as meat, just possibly lack of flavour. Dont know if its like eating paper bag, but if world goes that direction, i am moving to Italy they banned this sh!t
 

Xcaliber6685

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Sep 18, 2020
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Did you actually try it?
It should have same texture as meat, just possibly lack of flavour. Dont know if its like eating paper bag, but if world goes that direction, i am moving to Italy they banned this sh!t

Yes, not a fan. It's nothing like the real thing. But if I got lost in the desert and was starving, I'd probably even eat grass...lol
 

Prism247

Active member
Sep 6, 2021
44
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We went through this a couple years ago when Jono was working with them. I forget the release at the time, but I believe it was another pricey bottle... We got more info then but more importantly EO became much better about consistently publishing notes lists.

I still don't get Ensar's hangup on this. Maybe too much concern over the layout of a pyramid & the expectations it sets? I'd point out he does often focus on the pyramid in these comments. I just don't get why he can't say "This is primarily an 'oud soliflore' adorned with the following notes" etc. & make an approximated list even if it's not in the pyramid format.

It's no more complicated than this: Buyers (of anything) want to make informed decisions & being vague works against that - period. The higher the price, the more it's true.
 

Xcaliber6685

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Sep 18, 2020
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Plantation Oud is far from over.

According to one of my source, a plantation oud farmer based in Hainan China, they are converting a lot of farmlands that grow produce into growing oud trees instead, i'm not sure about Thailand, Malaysia and other countries but in China, plantation oud business is expanding, the market is growing just as quickly as durian and cuban cigar.

One quick stroll in FB marketplace it isn't hard to see there is a boatload of "oud suppliers" popping out of the woodwork to shill and sell all sorts of oud oils in the last few years, sellers from Indonesia, Philippines, Thailand, and china,etc. a lot of those plantation oud oils are garbage due to super long soaking and fermentation for higher yield, but the market itself is thriving and growing, if anything....that plantation stuff is oversaturating the market now.
 

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