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Akigalawood - best of (as of 2023)

Dane

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Jan 9, 2002
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Akigalawood, the wonderfully patchoulic Givaudan synthetic, is popping up more and more in popular fragrances. I've become more and more of a fan of this note and its ability to add a unique, musky undertone. I can only describe it as an alluring, musky patchouli with oud-y undertones.

My introduction to the note was with ELDO's Amourette, where it's married to a pretty potent, sweet, orange blossom accord, and something peppery. It's strong stuff...not very wearable, but a good showcase for the ingredient. ELDO later used it again to add a more subtle murkiness to the otherwise shampoo-floral, "I Am Trash".

One big supporter of the note has been a fan fav around here, Quintin Bisch. His Angel Muse and later Angel Nova are both terrific scents with lovely Akigalawood notes.

But his masterwork of patchouli and Akigalawood has to be Radiant Mirage* for Estee Lauder. It's moved up to bring one of my most oft-used scents. If you date things back a bit, you'll notice an influence from the likes of Zara's Fleurs de Patchouli* in collabs with Jo Malone (OG). Great deal btw.

One of the earliest mentions I can find for the note is CDG's Blackpepper. I know I've tried this, but can't recall much past the topnotes.

Enough of my babbling - what are your fav Akis?

* Akigalawood is not an advertised note
 

Andrewthecologneguy

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I first took note of akigala in 2017, had to look it up because I was not familiar with it.
I am a fan for sure.

Tommy Hilfiger Impact - nice fiery opening
Lacoste L'Homme Lacoste - not as obvious but presents well; enjoyed in the intense version as well
Comme des Garcons Black Pepper - spicy peppery woods
 

FiveoaksBouquet

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Angel Nova fan. A very uplifting scent. I liked Angel Muse edp and edt (now discontinued) too but the first time I picked out Akigalawood as a note was in Angel Nova edp. Haven’t tried the Nova edt yet. Is it as prominent in there?
 

Dane

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Angel Nova fan. A very uplifting scent. I liked Angel Muse edp and edt (now discontinued) too but the first time I picked out Akigalawood as a note was in Angel Nova edp. Haven’t tried the Nova edt yet. Is it as prominent in there?
I only tested them in passing, but the EDT has no Akigalawood note. At least not prominently.

I'm still undecided on Nova. 😕 What draws your attention? Meanwhile, I adore Muse EDT and am greatly disappointed in its discontinuation under L'Oreal.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

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I only tested them in passing, but the EDT has no Akigalawood note. At least not prominently.

I'm still undecided on Nova. 😕 What draws your attention? Meanwhile, I adore Muse EDT and am greatly disappointed in its discontinuation under L'Oreal.

Angel Muse edp was recently discontinued but the edt was on its way out before L’Oréal. I actually preferred the edt and was also sad.

It’s not only the Akigalawood in Angel Nova that is the draw but the fusion of rose, raspberry and kiwi, which is stunning, almost electric!
 

Dane

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Angel Muse edp was recently discontinued but the edt was on its way out before L’Oréal. I actually preferred the edt and was also sad.

It’s not only the Akigalawood in Angel Nova that is the draw but the fusion of rose, raspberry and kiwi, which is stunning, almost electric!
I'll have to give it another go. I'm not usually a raspberry person...something about it in perfume really bothers me. I think I'm haunted by being a teen in the 90s when every girl stunk of Dewberry by The Body Shop.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

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I'll have to give it another go. I'm not usually a raspberry person...something about it in perfume really bothers me. I think I'm haunted by being a teen in the 90s when every girl stunk of Dewberry by The Body Shop.

Yes, there was a time when raspberry was all around and rather sickening. Somehow today I’m liking a raspberry/rose accord. Have they refined the quality of raspberry aromachemicals? As a side note, I also am liking a strawberry note, which I hated when the original Miss Dior Chérie came out. We now seem to have “perfume quality” (as opposed to food quality) berry notes. 🙂
 

Dane

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Yes, there was a time when raspberry was all around and rather sickening. Somehow today I’m liking a raspberry/rose accord. Have they refined the quality of raspberry aromachemicals? As a side note, I also am liking a strawberry note, which I hated when the original Miss Dior Chérie came out. We now seem to have “perfume quality” (as opposed to food quality) berry notes. 🙂
They must've changed to different chemicals to stay more relevant. There was a Womanity flanker where the brilliant Christine Nagel couldn't even make strawberry work. I also scowled at Miss Dior Cherie at the time (I'd love to revisit now but I doubt it's affordable). The "I Am Trash" (sigh) I mentioned above has a huge strawberry note. It's tempered somewhat by an brash apple accord, all before the Akigalawood come forward.

Speaking of berries - and speaking of Christine Nagel - her Une Nuit Magnifique has a surprisingly pleasant bleuberry note that I love.
 

Dane

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I enjoy this in Sicilian Leather by Memo.
Their pricing has deterred me from testing the line tbh. Description sounds lovely though - high concentration of natural citrus, signed by Yann Vasnier...probably have to get a sample now.
 

slpfrsly

Physician, heal thyself
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I've tried several fragrances with this listed as a note but I don't know what it smells like, nor, I assume, does anyone else who hasn't smelled it or worked with it in insolation. At best, I'd say it's like a metallic cedar type smell - but that's about 80% of modern fragrances.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

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They must've changed to different chemicals to stay more relevant. There was a Womanity flanker where the brilliant Christine Nagel couldn't even make strawberry work. I also scowled at Miss Dior Cherie at the time (I'd love to revisit now but I doubt it's affordable). The "I Am Trash" (sigh) I mentioned above has a huge strawberry note. It's tempered somewhat by an brash apple accord, all before the Akigalawood come forward.

Speaking of berries - and speaking of Christine Nagel - her Une Nuit Magnifique has a surprisingly pleasant bleuberry note that I love.

The strawberry note perfume I wear is Cartier Les Heures de Parfum L’Heure Convoitée II. Very lovely, kind of surprising, strawberry topnote followed by carnation.
 

Varanis Ridari

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There's a pretty big slug of it in some Tom Ford scents like Fougere d'Argent and Beau de Jour, but I don't own either of those.

I think the only perfume I own where it is overtly used is Montblanc Explorer, and there it's used in a way that makes the scent feel drier and woodier to the Aventus it is often compared to by people online. Hence I often jokingly call that one "Aventus Sport"
 

FiveoaksBouquet

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They must've changed to different chemicals to stay more relevant. There was a Womanity flanker where the brilliant Christine Nagel couldn't even make strawberry work. I also scowled at Miss Dior Cherie at the time (I'd love to revisit now but I doubt it's affordable). The "I Am Trash" (sigh) I mentioned above has a huge strawberry note. It's tempered somewhat by an brash apple accord, all before the Akigalawood come forward.

Speaking of berries - and speaking of Christine Nagel - her Une Nuit Magnifique has a surprisingly pleasant bleuberry note that I love.

Blueberry sounds interesting. In addition to scowling at the strawberry note of original Miss Dior Cherie, I scowled at the popcorn note! 😄
 

Dane

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Blueberry sounds interesting. In addition to scowling at the strawberry note of original Miss Dior Cherie, I scowled at the popcorn note! 😄
I was just in Shoppers so I'm doing a side-by-side of Nova EDP and EDT.

So basically - remove all the Angel-esque elements (more Muse elements, but whatevs) and you end up with the EDT. If all you like are the topnotes from the EDP, it's great, but perhaps a bit shampoo-y.

The drydown of the EDP is not my favourite. It borrows some of the same musk accord present in Angel Eau de Toilette (most recent version), that I don't care for. It also has, dare I say, a civet-like note that both surprised and repulsed me.

All in all, the Muse line confuses me.
 

FiveoaksBouquet

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I was just in Shoppers so I'm doing a side-by-side of Nova EDP and EDT.

So basically - remove all the Angel-esque elements (more Muse elements, but whatevs) and you end up with the EDT. If all you like are the topnotes from the EDP, it's great, but perhaps a bit shampoo-y.

The drydown of the EDP is not my favourite. It borrows some of the same musk accord present in Angel Eau de Toilette (most recent version), that I don't care for. It also has, dare I say, a civet-like note that both surprised and repulsed me.

All in all, the Muse line confuses me.

Thanks for the test results, Dane. The Muse line is something we won’t have to (or be able to) worry about any more. It’s not on the Mugler website I looked at, now history.

Angel edt 2019 has a clean base note I do enjoy. Currently I like it better than today’s Angel edp, which, to my nose, has been stripped of all its unique notes.

No idea where Angel Nova will fit in as time goes on. In the latest Mugler email I received Aura is no longer among the refilling urns, showing only Angel, Alien (also stripped of its originality IMO) and Alien Goddess. The Mugler brand is obviously in a state of reorganization. I wonder where it will end up…
 

Dane

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Thanks for the test results, Dane. The Muse line is something we won’t have to (or be able to) worry about any more. It’s not on the Mugler website I looked at, now history.

Angel edt 2019 has a clean base note I do enjoy. Currently I like it better than today’s Angel edp, which, to my nose, has been stripped of all its unique notes.

No idea where Angel Nova will fit in as time goes on. In the latest Mugler email I received Aura is no longer among the refilling urns, showing only Angel, Alien (also stripped of its originality IMO) and Alien Goddess. The Mugler brand is obviously in a state of reorganization. I wonder where it will end up…
I also question the future of the brand. Things don't look promising.

Oh - one thing I forgot to mention in Nova EDT - it has a more pronounced rose note, especially in the drydown. It reminded me of CDG's "Rose".
 

FiveoaksBouquet

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I also question the future of the brand. Things don't look promising.

Oh - one thing I forgot to mention in Nova EDT - it has a more pronounced rose note, especially in the drydown. It reminded me of CDG's "Rose".

Next chance That arises I will make it a point to check out Angel Nova edt. Not sure why I haven’t gotten around to it.
 

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