AbdesSalaam Attar / La Via del Profumo - official fragrance discussion thread

[hoschhti]

GRINGO review:

Gringo is my new favourite from La Via del Profumo. The funny thing is that I already had a sample many years ago and I liked it but wasn’t wowed by it. A few weeks ago I ordered a new sample and it totally blew me away! First of all: Gringo is very persistent for a natural perfume. Folks who want decent longevity will be happy with this one. But to me the smell is the most important thing: The clever juxtaposition of very dirty (castoreum) and very clean notes (mint, citrus) is simply great. Gringo has a hefty dose of castoreum in it and one can smell its full power, but just at the moment when the scent would become too dirty the wonderful mint-note comes into play and covers the stinkier facets of castoreum up. I think there should be more perfumes featuring mint. Patchouli, frankincense, sandalwood and vanilla give the scent a solid and sweet body, so that the perfume appears almost monolithic, but paradoxically at the same time Gringo is kind of weightless and very easy to wear. A nice touch of citrus gives Gringo a Mediterranean feeling. Allegedly there is some rose in it, but to be honest I have problems detecting it. Probably the rose is somewhere in the background holding the scent together. Gringo doesn’t develop much over time, so what you get in the beginning is basically what you get in the end - and that for many glorious hours.

 

[Profumo]

I never shaved in my life Hoschhti. So I have beard as well. You can use pristine olive oil with a drop of essential oil of rose or Ylang Ylang or neroli.

 

[Emilio]

Hi guys! Ciao Dubrana!

After reading the entire thread out of nowhere (don't mock me) I felt as if I had to say something.

I'm intrigued by many of the scents mentioned... Mainly Tabac after reading Kafkaesque's review of it (cannot link it as I'm a new member of the site.)

However, I'm sligthly nervous that it will be too harsch, too "pure tobacco". Don't get me wrong, I love the smell of pure tobacco, but I want something a bit more complex from the scent itself - otherwise I'd just buy a nice cigar and sniff it!

I'm also impressed by your humbleness Dubrana. Also, cooperating with basenoters is such a brilliant move!

I hope I get a wiff of one of your creations ASAP - I'm keen to see what they offer!

Ciao

 

[Profumo]

Dear Emilio. Do not fear that there is too much tobacco in Tabac.There is just enough. you will see.This is maybe the more complex of my fragrances because it has the largest number of ingredients of all.
If you ever order, do not forget to mention that you are Emilio from BN. I will add more samples as I always do for fellow basenoters.

 

[Max Magnus]

Mr.Dubrana, while you offer great selection of samples on your website, I was wondering is there an option to purchase samples in smaller quantities and in simpler vials (with or without sprayer) in, say, 0.7-4ml? That way we would have an option to sample greater selection of fragrances for a more reasonable price...

Keep up the good work, we need more independent perfumers with great talent and quality of product!

 

[Emilio]

Dear Emilio. Do not fear that there is too much tobacco in Tabac.There is just enough. you will see.This is maybe the more complex of my fragrances because it has the largest number of ingredients of all.
If you ever order, do not forget to mention that you are Emilio from BN. I will add more samples as I always do for fellow basenoters.

Hello again Dubrana,

Thank you for the answer.

Interesting! Now I'm even more keen to experience its supposed depth.

I recently looked into Palermo Don Corleone. The Vanilla, Tobacco and Tuberose combo sounds very elegant and evocative! I have tried Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille (when I was still using synthetic fragrances) and while I liked some aspects of it I found it too sweet, too "feminine" (by modern perfumery standards) and a bit too gourmand. Perhaps Palermo Don Corleone can offer a vanilla and tobacco combination with more depth and less sweetness. Do you have anything to add about Palermo Don Corleone?

I will be sure to recall that I'm a fellow basenoter,

Ciao!

 

[Profumo]

I shall add a sample of it. Scent speaks more eloquently than words.

 

[hoschhti]

Mr.Dubrana, while you offer great selection of samples on your website, I was wondering is there an option to purchase samples in smaller quantities and in simpler vials (with or without sprayer) in, say, 0.7-4ml? That way we would have an option to sample greater selection of fragrances for a more reasonable price...

Keep up the good work, we need more independent perfumers with great talent and quality of product!

You can order smaller samples from Surrender to Chance or The Perfumed Court (albeit they are not really cheaper considering the volume, and not all perfumes are available).

 

[Max Magnus]

You can order smaller samples from Surrender to Chance or The Perfumed Court (albeit they are not really cheaper considering the volume, and not all perfumes are available).

Thanks!!

 

[Emilio]

here is the link,
Remain to be done the perfumes of Roma and Naple.

Are there any new about Roma? I like Rome a lot. And would like to know how the process is going.

Have a nice day,

Ciao,

Emilio

 

[Profumo]

Are there any new about Roma? I like Rome a lot. And would like to know how the process is going.

Have a nice day,

Ciao,

Emilio

Dear Emilio, things change quickly in the perfumery world and I am a little bit disheartened about launching new perfumes.
So much that I have issued Il Giglio di Firenze without a launch.
I feel shy to join in the chorus of 1500 new launches a year. 3 new perfumes per day.
I feel shy to present a new fragrance to bloggers because I am in friendly terms with many of them and I am afraid that their review would be nice even though the perfume does not deserve it.
Before we used to know each other it was quite an adventure to present them a new fragrance and wait anxiously their judgement. They also have a different life, Having now so many new perfumes to write about, more indeed than they could reasonably do, and I feel that they are sometimes stressed by their work of writing reviews and managing their site. They have also to compete for audience with many more newcomers on the scene.
I would have tried to do a launch in a new way on Basenotes, on the Profumo friends club, involving the basenoters, because I know that they are not of the type to praise perfumes that do not deserve it and I would know really what my new fragrance would be worth.
Unfortunately, the feature that allowed me to contact the 300 basenoters of the group has disappeared.
Basically these are the reasons why Roma’s and Naple’s perfumes have not yet been composed.

 

[crdb]

Dear Emilio, things change quickly in the perfumery world and I am a little bit disheartened about launching new perfumes.
So much that I have issued Il Giglio di Firenze without a launch.
I feel shy to join in the chorus of 1500 new launches a year. 3 new perfumes per day.
I feel shy to present a new fragrance to bloggers because I am in friendly terms with many of them and I am afraid that their review would be nice even though the perfume does not deserve it.
Before we used to know each other it was quite an adventure to present them a new fragrance and wait anxiously their judgement. They also have a different life, Having now so many new perfumes to write about, more indeed than they could reasonably do, and I feel that they are sometimes stressed by their work of writing reviews and managing their site. They have also to compete for audience with many more newcomers on the scene.
I would have tried to do a launch in a new way on Basenotes, on the Profumo friends club, involving the basenoters, because I know that they are not of the type to praise perfumes that do not deserve it and I would know really what my new fragrance would be worth.
Unfortunately, the feature that allowed me to contact the 300 basenoters of the group has disappeared.
Basically these are the reasons why Roma’s and Naple’s perfumes have not yet been composed.

I can't speak for the others, but I am getting new replies to this thread in my inbox. In fact, it was seeing your username posting that got me to re-visit the forum today. So perhaps a post here would be a nice soft launch?

 

[mumsy]

Dear Emilio, things change quickly in the perfumery world and I am a little bit disheartened about launching new perfumes.
So much that I have issued Il Giglio di Firenze without a launch.
I feel shy to join in the chorus of 1500 new launches a year. 3 new perfumes per day.
I feel shy to present a new fragrance to bloggers because I am in friendly terms with many of them and I am afraid that their review would be nice even though the perfume does not deserve it.
Before we used to know each other it was quite an adventure to present them a new fragrance and wait anxiously their judgement. They also have a different life, Having now so many new perfumes to write about, more indeed than they could reasonably do, and I feel that they are sometimes stressed by their work of writing reviews and managing their site. They have also to compete for audience with many more newcomers on the scene.
I would have tried to do a launch in a new way on Basenotes, on the Profumo friends club, involving the basenoters, because I know that they are not of the type to praise perfumes that do not deserve it and I would know really what my new fragrance would be worth.
Unfortunately, the feature that allowed me to contact the 300 basenoters of the group has disappeared.
Basically these are the reasons why Roma’s and Naple’s perfumes have not yet been composed.

Don't be disheartened my friend. You are a shining star amongst many other stars. The sheer volume of them needn't, and cannot take your own light away. Stars do shimmer brightly on some days and seem obscured by clouds on others, but they are still as bright behind the temporary and shifting clouds. Take some warmth from the sun and from the hug of your friends. Then the cloud can move along.

 

[cazaubon]

Very nice response mumsy, I completely agree. When you have a new release, you can post to this thread and everyone subscribed to it will see it. That way your fans can follow your work. . Please don't be dissuaded from announcing your new scents just because there are hundreds of other commercial perfumes launched! They are in a very different realm from what you create.

 

[hoschhti]

They are in a very different realm from what you create.

Exactly! Personally I don't care about the synthetic stuff that is released in myriads at all.

 

[Profumo]

I can't speak for the others, but I am getting new replies to this thread in my inbox. In fact, it was seeing your username posting that got me to re-visit the forum today. So perhaps a post here would be a nice soft launch?

Dear Crdb. Thank you for your suggestion. I shall think about how we could make it work.
Launch means basically that you send press releases and samples to people who will write comments and reviews.
It means also interviews.
All of which could be done here on Basenotes.
I need more suggestions from you my Basenoter friends.

 

[Profumo]

Perfumery classes in Italy.
Maybe not all of you are aware of the lengthy report that Kafkaesque wrote after participating in my seminar last year.
It is interesting reading for who likes the idea to make perfumes instead of buying them already made.
Here is the list of the links to the story of Kafkaesque Italian adventure, classes, tour of italy, the pope, Florence ecc,,,
Kafkaesque on perfumery classes 0
Kafkaesque on perfumery classes 1
Kafkaesque on perfumery classes 2
Kafkaesque on perfumery classes 3
Kafkaesque on perfumery classes 4
Kafkaesque on perfumery classes 5
Kafkaesque on perfumery classes 6
Kafkaesque on perfumery classes 7

 

[Max Magnus]

Perfumery classes in Italy.

Amazing info! Thank you for sharing...

 

[MrsDalloway]

I had a quick look at the Celebrity Fragrance Guide website - mostly dull but Donna Tartt wears Hindu Kush apparently.

 

[Emilio]

Dear Emilio, things change quickly in the perfumery world and I am a little bit disheartened about launching new perfumes.
So much that I have issued Il Giglio di Firenze without a launch.
I feel shy to join in the chorus of 1500 new launches a year. 3 new perfumes per day.
I feel shy to present a new fragrance to bloggers because I am in friendly terms with many of them and I am afraid that their review would be nice even though the perfume does not deserve it.
Before we used to know each other it was quite an adventure to present them a new fragrance and wait anxiously their judgement. They also have a different life, Having now so many new perfumes to write about, more indeed than they could reasonably do, and I feel that they are sometimes stressed by their work of writing reviews and managing their site. They have also to compete for audience with many more newcomers on the scene.
I would have tried to do a launch in a new way on Basenotes, on the Profumo friends club, involving the basenoters, because I know that they are not of the type to praise perfumes that do not deserve it and I would know really what my new fragrance would be worth.
Unfortunately, the feature that allowed me to contact the 300 basenoters of the group has disappeared.
Basically these are the reasons why Roma’s and Naple’s perfumes have not yet been composed.

4


Hey Dubrana!

Haven't seen your reply until today. Luckily I noticed it now!

I understand your position... But I still think you're in another market than these big rocks! You sell mainly to connoisseurs; not to the crowd. You should be proud of this. Perhaps the profit is unnoticeable when compared to the big rocks. Nevertheless, your craft has a higher value; a higher spirit.

While I do respect some niche perfumers whom are using synthetics, I think that your approach is unique; all natural with an aroma chemical basic idea and on top of that you're rumored to be a genius composer of scents; sounds compelling to me?

I'm not sure if I'm buying completely into it the aroma chemical part of your work. I do understand that a scent can affect the psyche (the smell of sour milk makes me feel sick, the smell of vanilla makes me feel relaxed and perhaps ready to be aroused). The problem is that I'm not sure of just how much, when and how etc. (perhaps it's quiet subjective, placebo?). Maybe, I'll be more convinced about this part as of when my sample set has arrived and I tried some of the perfumes. The second big problem is: does synthetics hold similar aroma chemical functions?

But, come on Dubrana! Believe in your art.

Perhaps you have to change your marketing strategies in order to have a boarder spectrum of clients, but that's about it, I think.

Have a good one,

Emil