parker25mv
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- Oct 12, 2016
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Some perfumers working with naturals might want to dip their toes in the water and begin using some synthetic ACs, but may not know where to start. The following are a handful of the most commonly used and important ACs used in fragrances. It could be a good place to start experimenting.
1. Linalool - This is sort of along the lines of lavender, but clearer, more transparent.
You could also try linalyl acetate, also beautiful, less sharp than linalool. It may also help give you a sense of the difference between terpenic alcohols and acetates in general.
2. Salicylate - There are several different types of salicylates. You could try any of them (with the exception of methyl salicylate which is very mint-wintergreen, not a good introduction to salicylates). Probably the most common salicylate used in perfumery is Isoamyl salicylate. Salicylates add a white opaque floral effect, reminiscent of the smell of many sunscreens.
3. Iso E Super - This is in the "amber-wood" category.
4. Phenylethyl alcohol - This is so widely used in perfumery. Kind of has a little bit of a sharp feel, reminiscent of a certain part of the smell in rose (maybe more of a wilting rose). If you have smelled certain alcohol sanitary wipes, this is the smell.
It doesn't smell bad, smells kind of interesting, doesn't smell really wonderful on its own, but it can be very useful in some situations. If I had to guess, maybe 30 percent of women's fragrances use some of this.
5. Dihydromyrcenol - This may not smell so wonderful on its own but is extremely useful in perfumery. Kind of gives a deeper darker very textured woody lavender-lime sort of feel. Will often be found in many men's bathroom fragrances adding freshness.
6. C-9 or C-10 aldehyde - Add one of these if you want to add a "sparkling" effect to your fragrance. This is the typical "aldehyde"-type effect. You might try 0.5%.
C-9 leans just a little more sour lemony rose in feel, whereas C-10 leans a tiny bit more orange, but the two are much more similar to each other than different. By themselves, they are kind of waxy soapy feeling, even a little reminiscent of a burning candle.
7. Geraniol - This might be one more you might want to try. It's reminiscent of the green leaves of roses, sort of evoking the effect of a red rose, kind of sharp, it feels "wet and dewy". It's in the terpenic alcohol family like linalool but smells very different.
8. Coumarin - This is very commonly used in fragrances, especially for a sweeter effect. Some compare this effect to a deep dried amber-color hay. This is the "tonka bean" note.
(Warning: be aware that you do NOT want to ingest this. It can act as a poisonous blood thinner. But a little diluted on your skin is perfectly okay)
Maybe try 1 to 2%. You can use up to 5%.
(I want to emphasise that all the above do not smell as complex or wonderful as natural essential oils, but they will provide a much stronger concentrated smell than most essential oils, and are more practical economically. They all play an important role in fragrances, when combined with other natural materials. As a beginning perfumer, I also recommend for most of the florals that you look to synthetic bases, not the naturals, since they will be much stronger in smell and much less expensive than natural flower absolutes.)
You may also want to experiment with adding very small amounts of the ionones, or maybe even damascones/damascenone.
These can really add life and specific character to a fragrance. They are very potent in effect so only need to be added in low levels. You can try the ionone at 1.5%, though it will still have a very noticeable effect at 0.5%. (For damascone, even 0.1% will give a very powerful effect, and it will noticeably change the feel of the fragrance even at 0.01%)
If you want to experiment with musks, try Exaltolide or Ambrettolide at maybe 4 to 7%.
Vanillin can be good to have on hand. It's very similar to vanilla but less complex and sweeter, and it is more concentrated, a little goes a long way. It is cheaper than natural vanilla. Maybe try 0.5 to 1%.
If you combine all the above with natural essential oils, you can start making some perfumes that smell similar to the professional ones (or at least begin to approach the feel of commercial fragrances).
1. Linalool - This is sort of along the lines of lavender, but clearer, more transparent.
You could also try linalyl acetate, also beautiful, less sharp than linalool. It may also help give you a sense of the difference between terpenic alcohols and acetates in general.
2. Salicylate - There are several different types of salicylates. You could try any of them (with the exception of methyl salicylate which is very mint-wintergreen, not a good introduction to salicylates). Probably the most common salicylate used in perfumery is Isoamyl salicylate. Salicylates add a white opaque floral effect, reminiscent of the smell of many sunscreens.
3. Iso E Super - This is in the "amber-wood" category.
4. Phenylethyl alcohol - This is so widely used in perfumery. Kind of has a little bit of a sharp feel, reminiscent of a certain part of the smell in rose (maybe more of a wilting rose). If you have smelled certain alcohol sanitary wipes, this is the smell.
It doesn't smell bad, smells kind of interesting, doesn't smell really wonderful on its own, but it can be very useful in some situations. If I had to guess, maybe 30 percent of women's fragrances use some of this.
5. Dihydromyrcenol - This may not smell so wonderful on its own but is extremely useful in perfumery. Kind of gives a deeper darker very textured woody lavender-lime sort of feel. Will often be found in many men's bathroom fragrances adding freshness.
6. C-9 or C-10 aldehyde - Add one of these if you want to add a "sparkling" effect to your fragrance. This is the typical "aldehyde"-type effect. You might try 0.5%.
C-9 leans just a little more sour lemony rose in feel, whereas C-10 leans a tiny bit more orange, but the two are much more similar to each other than different. By themselves, they are kind of waxy soapy feeling, even a little reminiscent of a burning candle.
7. Geraniol - This might be one more you might want to try. It's reminiscent of the green leaves of roses, sort of evoking the effect of a red rose, kind of sharp, it feels "wet and dewy". It's in the terpenic alcohol family like linalool but smells very different.
8. Coumarin - This is very commonly used in fragrances, especially for a sweeter effect. Some compare this effect to a deep dried amber-color hay. This is the "tonka bean" note.
(Warning: be aware that you do NOT want to ingest this. It can act as a poisonous blood thinner. But a little diluted on your skin is perfectly okay)
Maybe try 1 to 2%. You can use up to 5%.
(I want to emphasise that all the above do not smell as complex or wonderful as natural essential oils, but they will provide a much stronger concentrated smell than most essential oils, and are more practical economically. They all play an important role in fragrances, when combined with other natural materials. As a beginning perfumer, I also recommend for most of the florals that you look to synthetic bases, not the naturals, since they will be much stronger in smell and much less expensive than natural flower absolutes.)
You may also want to experiment with adding very small amounts of the ionones, or maybe even damascones/damascenone.
These can really add life and specific character to a fragrance. They are very potent in effect so only need to be added in low levels. You can try the ionone at 1.5%, though it will still have a very noticeable effect at 0.5%. (For damascone, even 0.1% will give a very powerful effect, and it will noticeably change the feel of the fragrance even at 0.01%)
If you want to experiment with musks, try Exaltolide or Ambrettolide at maybe 4 to 7%.
Vanillin can be good to have on hand. It's very similar to vanilla but less complex and sweeter, and it is more concentrated, a little goes a long way. It is cheaper than natural vanilla. Maybe try 0.5 to 1%.
If you combine all the above with natural essential oils, you can start making some perfumes that smell similar to the professional ones (or at least begin to approach the feel of commercial fragrances).
