2 Caramel accords- Enjoy!

[Bkkorn]

Made 2 batches of basic caramel accords. I wanted to not over think it with too many ingredients, and had a fresh bottle of real caramel by my side to keep sniffing to compare and build these accords to. These could make good starting point for everyone, enjoy!

Smooth caramel accord #1 (smells like the bottle of real caramel by my side)

Maltol crytals- 10% 3.936g
Vannilan crystals - 20%. 1.000g
Tonka bean - 100% 1.600g
Methyl Cyclo Pentenolone- 10% 0.120g
Eythl vanillan - 19% 2.130g

Burnt caramel accord #2 (a different take on the above. a slightly burnt, robust caramel)

Maltol crytals- 10%. 4.990g
Vannilan crystals -20%. 1.450g
Tonka bean - 100% 0.963g
Methyl Cyclo Pentenolone - 10% 0.188g
Eythl vanillan- 19% 1.572g

I’ve test both batches diluted down to 10% EDP concentration, and both performed 8+ hours on my skin. these would be suitable for base or heart notes. To liven these up, I’m sure you could add in some different lactones, but i didn’t have anything suitable....so made due with what I had at my disposal.

 

[RSG]

Great job! I made a caramel and used a tonka bean replacer that I made.

 

[Bkkorn]

Great job! I made a caramel and used a tonka bean replacer that I made.

Thanks homie! :thumbsup:

 

[pkiler]

You should evaluate these a week or two from now. I think that the Tonka dosage will likely be way too high.

 

[Bkkorn]

I have them sitting on a shelf of a heater, gonna let them sit for a week.

What do you propose for tonka dosage, half of what I got in there ?

 

[pkiler]

To me, Tonka/coumarin in vanilla, usually ends up at "Cookie".
Could be wrong, as I've not made your formula. But Caramel Formulas don't often have any coumarin in them.

 

[Bkkorn]

Annnnnndddd your right. Just after 24 hours of re-evaluating them from sitting on a heater.....they do have a bready cookie like nuance. Needs less tonka....and more lactone

 

[Bobby7]

My salted caramel accord is equal parts sandalwood and benzoin diluted in basmati rice tincture (20% tinctured for 6 weeks shaken daily) , its literally like toffee!

 

[Bkkorn]

Paul, you were right.

After letting this sit on a heater for a couple days, and testing it on my skin....it’s VERY cookie! Lol

It really reminds me of brown maple gingerbread cookies from Christmas time.

 

[Bkkorn]

So more materials arrived today. And the savior of the day was to add in some Butyl Butyro Lactate.

By using alot less Tonka bean, and adding some of that lactate in....really smooths and creams up the accord just right!

 

[Bkkorn]

Just an update, after letting it sit for some time...the accord is still turning to this darker, more burnt smell than a creamy caramel. I tried a batch with adding in even more butyl butryo lactate...but the butryo lactose started to take on this “sour spoiled milk” vibe in higher doses. So I knew I reached that tipping point of too much of it.

Right now my formula in grams is:

Maltol crystals - 0.740g
Tonka accord (PA) - 0.110
Methyl cyclo pent - 0.017
Eythl vanillin - 0.276
aldehyde c-18 - 0.040
vanilla sugar oil accord (PA) - 0.034
Butyl butyro lactate - 0.162


My thoughts are that I’m using too much maltol, and not enough vanillan.
Thoughts?

 

[Bkkorn]

So I’ve adjusted it by adding in more ethyl vanillan to:

Maltol crystals - 0.740g
Tonka accord (PA) - 0.110
Methyl cyclo pent - 0.017
Eythl vanillin - 0.526
aldehyde c-18 - 0.040
vanilla sugar oil accord (PA) - 0.034
Butyl butyro lactate - 0.162

It’s better, sweeter. However it’s still too bold and not as creamy, smooth and soft as I’m trying to go for. I still feel like it’s missing something....or if I’m still too heavy handed in the maltol.

 

[chyprefresh]

Have you tried Isobutavan instead of vanillin? It's supposedly has caramel nuance along with a creamier thicker aspect, could probably work in conjunction with vanillin. I got some ordered as I need more cream in my vanilla accord..

 

[Bkkorn]

Have you tried Isobutavan instead of vanillin? It's supposedly has caramel nuance along with a creamier thicker aspect, could probably work in conjunction with vanillin. I got some ordered as I need more cream in my vanilla accord..

This could be what I’m looking for. Added it to my list of next orders!

 

[pavomi]

i'd recommend homofuronol in combination with methyl laitone. this should give you a simple, but pretty solid caramel base.

maltol seems to be very overdosed, same as ethyl vanillin. IMO these ACs should be used way more sparingly for caramel... just my opinion...

isobutavan is an extremely lovely AC! it has a phenolic aspect next to vanilla notes, but again, i'm not sure if this is really necessary for a caramel accord. but try it, i didnt do so far in this context. keep us posted how it worked out.

 

[Bkkorn]

So another shipment arrived today, and changed the formula to add in ETHYL Maltol (I've only been using regular Maltol up to this point) Which seems to have been the missing mojo ingredient that I was after. It added a sweeter, candy like vibe, but still retained the Carmel scent.

Also upped the butryo lactate to cream it up just a tad bit more....and it's finally getting closer to what I envisioned.

 

[emrego]

Quick question; I have Ethyl Maltol and @10% in DPG I can't smell anything sweet or candy-like. Does anyone else have/heard anything like that ? When I asked other people to smell my 10% dilution, they were able to, and exactly described that candy, strawberry-ish sweet smell. However I only get a toned down dusty smell - could even be the DPG itself. I researched a bit but couldn't find anyone mentioning being anosmic to Ethyl Maltol.

Does it make sense to dilute it to 1% or increase to 20% ?

 

[chyprefresh]

Bkkorn after a month is a full blown amateur perfumer, at least an 'accordian' :laugh: he's a rising star.

 

[Bkkorn]

Bkkorn after a month is a full blown amateur perfumer, at least an 'accordian' :laugh: he's a rising star.

Hahahha...I'm tryin man....I'm tryin....

 

[Bkkorn]

Keep it at 10%. You won't be able to dissolve it at anything higher than 10%, it will just keep crystalizing on you. Even at 10% I have to heat it up before use to get some of the crystalization out at the bottom of the bottle.

But this is one of those silent killers. At 10% on it's own it's very faint. But when you add it in other things, you'll feel it's effect.