Mark Buxton was born in England but grew up in Germany. One day, when he was studying geology at Göttingen university, a friend suggested they appear on a TV game show with the challenge that they can recognise any perfume the presenter gives them to sniff. They did, and they won, and that night they spent getting drunk with Falco and Leonard Cohen in the studio bar. For Buxton, the next step was an invite to go to Haarman & Reimer, now Symrise, which ended with him being offered a place at their perfume school.
His first commercial perfume was made for the cartoon elephant Babar; the second was Laguna for Salvador Dali. It's a powdery aquatic-mint tobacco, and (except for a gassy opening - which you sometimes get with aquatic...
Fleur de Fleurs means Flower of Flowers; an abstract, Platonic Flower perhaps.
It's a floral, but not any one type of flower.
The reality is more prosaic than Platonic; Fleur de Fleurs is an old fashioned bouquet.
One point of reference is the naturalism of Patou's Vacances, a joyful invocation of French meadows in summer; lightness, green, flowers, it's one of the finest Nature Bouquets ever made.
Fleur de Fleurs has a similar flowery feel to Vacances, but there’s more to it than that.
It was launched in the early 1980’s. It’s a bit like Eau de Gucci, and has a soft Ambery feel like Vanderbilt.
However, it’s less like the Rose Chypres of Sinan and the original Armani which now typify the eighties.
FdF also has a powdery softness...
Black Walnut by Banana Republic (current formulation)
Black Walnut by Banana Republic (original vintage)
If you're looking for a great fragrance at bargain-basement prices, let me offer, for your consideration, the latest versions of the classic Banana Republic men's fragrances, Black Walnut, Slate, and Cordovan.
None of them is exactly like the original, but every one of them is still surprisingly close, and - even more importantly - surprisingly good.
Most of all - surprisingly cheap.
The original Black Walnut was a bit of a lucky buy for me. At first, after I got it home, I was disappointed when I realized that it was so similar to a fragrance already in my (at the time) meager collection - the "red bottle" Givenchy...
Smell Well: it doesn't mean to smell more, or to smell better; to smell well means to 'infer' well;
which means to say - when someone smells well, they do more than analyse, they
interpret, they understand ... they deduce.
Adapted from a podcast on radiofrance.fr
Being an Amber, Tramp is in the same family as Opium, which followed two years later.
They both draw on Youth-Dew for inspiration but they couldn't be more different. Where Opium is a spicy orange Amber that wove a symphony of notes from the coat tail of Shalimar, Tramp went minimalist and stripped its Amber legacy back to the basics : a dry - slightly floral amber, a citrus intro and aldehydes, these are the main points of reference.
The effect is like a full bodied Je Reviens; very retro, very thirties.
Intuitively, the two styles - Amber and Aldehydic - would seem to be at odds: Amber is thick, warm and sweet; aldehydes are cool, thin and hard; but they dovetail together to make an Amber that's as streamlined as Opium is opulent...
'The olfactive profile of the Bluebell is reminiscent of the Hyacinth.
It is not a very strong fragrance but it becomes very noticeable when walking through a Bluebell wood.
We describe it [as] a green-floral, as it is oily-green and quite intoxicating.
Bluebells are not part of the ‘white flowers’ category (Jasmin, Orange Blossom, Tuberose, Ylang, Gardenia,…), not because of their colour but because they have a richness, headiness and depth that is more reminiscent [of the] ‘red flowers’ category (Rose, Violet, Lilac, Sweet Pea,…).
Some perfumers believe there should be a ‘green floral’ category for flowers such as Lily of the Valley, Narcissus and Hyacinth. This is where we believe the most natural home for the Bluebell is.'
When Coty composed L'Origan, he used six bases.
When Henri Alméras did Moment Suprême, Givaudan's Melittis made up a third of the formula.
Likewise with Amour Amour, which was 35% Amaranth.
Lifted from Pot-Pourri by Maïté Turronet
But that's nothing.
Molecule 01 is 100% Iso E Super, Geza Schoen.
Scanning perfume adverts on the Internet, it seems that the youngest models were about twenty in the 1950's and around fifteen today.
Where they were often dressed in jewels and furs, promising the high life, now they are barely out of school.
I won't go into the reasons for that, which are many; suffice it to say the perfumes have changed as well as the faces.
And coincidentally, now that men are often being targeted as perfume wearers - as opposed to givers - their pongs have encroached on the feminine odour space; this is an example of that.
Girl is a shrill orange fruity with some powdery amber woods.
It reminds me of that fizzy orange musk, Boss in Motion (2002) marketed to men.
The target audience isn't old enough to remember...
I am writing a book, said James Joyce.
Oh, said Frank Budgeon, his friend. How's it going?
I have been working hard on it all day Joyce replied.
Ah, said Budgeon.
Seeking the 'mot juste'...
I am writing the Lestrygonians: my hero encounters silk petticoats hanging in a shop window.
"Perfume of embraces all him assailed.
With hungered flesh obscurely, he mutely craved to adore."
~ ~ ~ ~
I see, said Budgeon...
Lifted from : The Creators - Daniel J. Boorstin
A grapefruit and white floral combo (reminiscent of cK One - from 1994 - the previous year) Esencia de Duende has a sharp smoothness that would keep you fresh on the hottest of summer afternoons.
But it's badly named.
This is not the essence of Duende - which Wikipedia tells me is a mysterious power - which everyone may sense and no philosopher explain; an animal reaction that makes you shiver, or weep with emotion at the sight of an intense spectacle, like that most theatrical of dances, flamenco.
For an experience like that, you would have to go home first, shower and change, and spray on something far more diabolical than this sweet divertimento, which would distract you from those depths of passion you only feel when you're fully...
Doctors could employ smells better than they do.
I have often found their different qualities affect my mood, and this makes me agree with the theory that
the use of incense and perfume in temples - an ancient and widespread practice
among all nations and religions - was to raise our spirits
and purify the senses, the better to fit us for contemplation.
Adapted from On Smells by Michel de Montaigne, circa 1580