Amber / Iris
Although Layers is currently the most prominent public face of EPC - the first kit launched at Liberty in 2018 and Layers 02 is available at Harvey Nichols from May 2019 - the brand didn't actually start life with a saleable product. Indeed, Moeglin says that when she set up the company, she didn't think she'd end up formulating fragrances for it. After a childhood of being obsessed with smells and scents - her parents always told her she'd have her own perfume one day - and following several years as an evaluator and fragrance development manager at none other than Symrise, Puig and L'Oreal, she decided that what she wanted to do was share her love of perfume creation by setting up a series of day-long workshops in London at which attendees could learn the basic principles of perfumery and then apply them to making their own, rudimentary creations.
Fig / Neroli
It was the increasing demand for her perfumery skills that led to her considering the formation of her own scents.
Jasmine / Osmanthus
With the help of a designer, the idea for Layers 01 began taking shape and took a year to develop.
“There are a million brands around today,” Moeglin explains, “and a lot of ‘me' brands. I didn't want to be another brand with another ‘me' perfume. In my workshops, I was teaching all these incredible individuals, who were showing me that people are not dumb and that they can blend and can understand the basic principles of perfumery. So I thought I'd do that in a retail collection. Why not create perfumes that can be blended together?”
Bergamot / Incense
“It is complicated, but I'm also surrounded by professionals who can advise me and help me, because I come from the industry myself. The way I formulate has to be minimalist, because we're blending a few different things together. And the challenge was to make a minimalist fragrance that smells nice and finished. One of my biggest fears is that people start mixing the Layers scents with perfumes that aren't ours, but of course we can't take any legal responsibility for that. We've pointed out the importance of safety to our consumers.”
Having solved the conundrum with her initial Layers trio, she then had to repeat the trick with Layers 02, while striving to ensure that the Top from 01 could successfully be blended with the Mid from 02, and so on.
“It is a bit of a jigsaw,” she says, “and I had to think about it onpaper. I had to think of another three parts of a bigger picture. I knew that I wanted to do an amber, so I went from that. And a friend said I should do a green note, because green and amber are not often seen together. It was all a chain of thought, and eventually I started working on a rose [for the Mid], knowing it would be fresh.”
Rose / Rhubarb
“The cost of my juice is high. I've followed my nose when making my formulas, and sometimes when I enter them into my software and I see the cost, I'm shocked. Amber Iris, the Base from Layers 02, is extremely, extremely expensive. I haven't communicated that to people so much, and I'm not sure why. I mean, how can you say to people, ‘My juice is £300 a kilo. You'd never see that type of price on the market.' People just wouldn't understand. Our brand is not bling. Our retail price is very affordable. And I've always prioritised the juice and the quality of ingredients. I hope it's something people can smell.”
Sandalwood / Musk
“It was amazing, because that was always my go-to perfumery in London. I couldn't believe it when they accepted to take us. When I saw the window, it felt like the dreams of a young girl coming true.”
- Layers 01 consists of Top Bergamot-Incense, Mid Jasmine-Osmanthus, Base Sandalwood-Musk.
- Layers 02 consists of Top Fig-Neroli, Mid Rose-Rhubarb, Base Amber-Iris.
- To watch a YouTube video of Persolaise blending the scents from Layers 01, please click here
- You can find more about the Experimental Perfume Club at their website here.